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2.7 l oil change

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Old 08-13-2015, 11:47 AM
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Interesting. I wonder if this may have been a packaging decision, in addition to design or cost. If that's where the oil filter needs to be in relation to the overall oil path, a spin on filter would have been a huge PITA.

I personally like cartridge filters.. let's you see what the filter is doing when you change it
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Old 08-13-2015, 04:52 PM
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Nice post, OP. I'll be doing my first one tomorrow morning as well. Glad to already know the socket sizes, will make the job, that much more quick. I was actually on here to get a torque spec on the oil filter housing. Thank for the info and write up.
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Old 08-15-2015, 01:37 AM
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i apologize i have not watched the video yet from the first page... Is there any instruction as to where the replacement orings go that come in the new FL-2062 box? This will be my first oil change in a brand new 2015 XLT, so I'm just trying to make sure I have all the information possible. Thanks.
Old 08-15-2015, 06:19 AM
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Originally Posted by pdsheehy
i apologize i have not watched the video yet from the first page... Is there any instruction as to where the replacement orings go that come in the new FL-2062 box? This will be my first oil change in a brand new 2015 XLT, so I'm just trying to make sure I have all the information possible. Thanks.

The video is for the 3.5L, and the filter cartridge being discussed here is on the 2.7L. When you unscrew the filter housing you will see 2 o-rings that seal the housing which need to be replaced. Next the center stem that passes through the filter cartridge has the small o-ring. I pulled the center stem from the filter housing, replaced the small o-ring and re-inserted the stem into the filter housing. Hope this info helps.
Old 08-18-2015, 12:43 AM
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I'm planning on doing a 1000 mile change in a week or so, so thanks for this info. I read on another board that you have to do the change within 10 minutes so the pump doesn't drain, then fail to prime and fail.

Any thoughts on this or is it bogus?
Old 08-18-2015, 07:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Lare
I'm planning on doing a 1000 mile change in a week or so, so thanks for this info. I read on another board that you have to do the change within 10 minutes so the pump doesn't drain, then fail to prime and fail.

Any thoughts on this or is it bogus?
To change oil-You wait 10 minutes (after shutting engine off) for complete draining of the engine oil or even checking of the engine oil to make sure all of the oil is back in the oil pan so it can be fully drained of oil.

Don't drain oil or check oil level until engine has been shut off for 10 minutes.

.

With the start/stop technology, all of the oil does not drain back completely into the oil pan each time the engine shuts off so the engine is not starved of oil when restarting to move on.
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Old 08-18-2015, 11:18 AM
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Thanks for busting that myth, Boatman. It's amazing how directional info can get distorted. Somebody following the 'street' direction would have done just exactly opposite what is recommended.
Old 10-06-2015, 09:18 PM
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Interesting it's a cartridge filter. My wife's 2009 Mariner has one as well. I like them.
Old 10-06-2015, 10:53 PM
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I've had cartridge filters before, but never one that was up front & on top like the 2.7. The oil sump plug that is hand tightened/removed also facilitates oil changes...nice.
Old 10-09-2015, 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by JamesF
The video is for the 3.5L, and the filter cartridge being discussed here is on the 2.7L. When you unscrew the filter housing you will see 2 o-rings that seal the housing which need to be replaced. Next the center stem that passes through the filter cartridge has the small o-ring. I pulled the center stem from the filter housing, replaced the small o-ring and re-inserted the stem into the filter housing. Hope this info helps.
Mine had just one large o-ring and one small o-ring on the fliter housing. The filter came with two large and one small o-rings but I didn't see a place for the second large one. It's not leaking, but now I'm curious if I might have missed something.


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