In-Frame Rebuild Tips for a 302 in a 1989 F-150
12-27-2021, 02:45 AM
#1
In-Frame Rebuild Tips for a 302 in a 1989 F-150
Hi,
I've just completed an in-frame rebuild of a 302 in an 1989 F-150 4WD. In-frame rebuilds are not the best way, but sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do
This is my first attempt at rebuilding an engine too. The job takes about a week when you have all the parts.
I thought I would share some tips for those looking to undertake this (or part of) project. There are a few tricky spots that can save a lot of time if you know shortcuts. Some of these I came up with myself, some took from videos and other places.
There are some F-150 specific things that will make your life easier - also useful for those that want to do the oil pan / oil pump.
1. Honing
Stick a tin can wrapped in paper at the bottom of the cylinder. This way grit doesn't get into the engine! Simple, yet effective.
Use a 90 degree drill adapter to get to the corner cylinders.
Honing:
Honing:
2. Main Bearings
Main Bearings are easier than they look to roll in and deal with.
A good way to roll them out is to bend a cotter pin (I used a keyring), feed it into an oil hole and spin the engine.
An ATX case bracket out of any PC makes a great tool to get main bearings started.
If you press on the bearing at the edge closest to the engine block when you are trying to roll it in, it's much easier to push it in. You need strong fingers though.
Make sure you change the first main bearing (closest to the front the engine). It receives a lot of wear, I think (but not 100% sure on this one) because of the serpentine belt. This is the only bearing I had that was significantly down to copper.
Rolling in:
Tools for main bearings:
N1 Main Bearing:
3. Oil Pump Install
This is the worst part of the rebuild job!
Feed a vacuum hose through the distributor hole and attach the oil pump drive shaft on the other side. Then pull it into the block and let it dangle.
Install a stud into one oil pump mounting hole. Then you can slip the pump over the stud, install a nut and adjust it as you align the drive shaft into the pump. Then you can install one proper bolt, take out the stud, and install the other bolt.
I did an oil pump job before on this truck without using the above techniques, and it was a nightmare.
Oil Pump Stud:
Oil Pump Drive Shaft & Vacuum Hose:
Oil Pump Drive Shaft & Vacuum Hose:
4. Installing Cylinder Heads
Install a stud into one head bolt hole. Much easier to slip the head in.
5. Cylinder Ridge
Watch out for cylinder ridges when you pull it apart. I had 2 cylinders with a tiny ridge on the thrust side, make sure to remove them - I opted for sandpaper and honing. F-Series trucks tend to run on straight gas down under and there is not much bore wear even for almost 500,000Km (!), but assuming petrol is the likely fuel in US/other places, it may be an issue.
6. Engine Mounts
It's actually easier to install engine mounts first onto engine perches, hang the engine over them and then wiggle them around and bolt them up. I couldn't just "drop" the engine in with the mounts installed - it wouldn't line up.
Cheers,
D
I've just completed an in-frame rebuild of a 302 in an 1989 F-150 4WD. In-frame rebuilds are not the best way, but sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do
This is my first attempt at rebuilding an engine too. The job takes about a week when you have all the parts.I thought I would share some tips for those looking to undertake this (or part of) project. There are a few tricky spots that can save a lot of time if you know shortcuts. Some of these I came up with myself, some took from videos and other places.
There are some F-150 specific things that will make your life easier - also useful for those that want to do the oil pan / oil pump.
1. Honing
Stick a tin can wrapped in paper at the bottom of the cylinder. This way grit doesn't get into the engine! Simple, yet effective.
Use a 90 degree drill adapter to get to the corner cylinders.
Honing:
Honing:
2. Main Bearings
Main Bearings are easier than they look to roll in and deal with.
A good way to roll them out is to bend a cotter pin (I used a keyring), feed it into an oil hole and spin the engine.
An ATX case bracket out of any PC makes a great tool to get main bearings started.
If you press on the bearing at the edge closest to the engine block when you are trying to roll it in, it's much easier to push it in. You need strong fingers though.
Make sure you change the first main bearing (closest to the front the engine). It receives a lot of wear, I think (but not 100% sure on this one) because of the serpentine belt. This is the only bearing I had that was significantly down to copper.
Rolling in:
Tools for main bearings:
N1 Main Bearing:
3. Oil Pump Install
This is the worst part of the rebuild job!
Feed a vacuum hose through the distributor hole and attach the oil pump drive shaft on the other side. Then pull it into the block and let it dangle.
Install a stud into one oil pump mounting hole. Then you can slip the pump over the stud, install a nut and adjust it as you align the drive shaft into the pump. Then you can install one proper bolt, take out the stud, and install the other bolt.
I did an oil pump job before on this truck without using the above techniques, and it was a nightmare.
Oil Pump Stud:
Oil Pump Drive Shaft & Vacuum Hose:
Oil Pump Drive Shaft & Vacuum Hose:
4. Installing Cylinder Heads
Install a stud into one head bolt hole. Much easier to slip the head in.
5. Cylinder Ridge
Watch out for cylinder ridges when you pull it apart. I had 2 cylinders with a tiny ridge on the thrust side, make sure to remove them - I opted for sandpaper and honing. F-Series trucks tend to run on straight gas down under and there is not much bore wear even for almost 500,000Km (!), but assuming petrol is the likely fuel in US/other places, it may be an issue.
6. Engine Mounts
It's actually easier to install engine mounts first onto engine perches, hang the engine over them and then wiggle them around and bolt them up. I couldn't just "drop" the engine in with the mounts installed - it wouldn't line up.
Cheers,
D
Last edited by danielruss88; 12-27-2021 at 02:48 AM.
12-27-2021, 03:10 PM
#2
What were the reasons for doing a DIY rebuild, versus pulling the block and sending it off to the machine shop to go 20-30 over? Figure a 30 over rebuild kit would cost 500-600 bucks and include pistons, gaskets, pump, etc. Whats the machine shop gonna be... 600 bucks? For the cost, you'll end up with a straight block, perfect cylinders, and the bottom end will last another 300,000 miles. If the heads need freshing up you can have them decked, new seals, springs, and toss in a set of new lifters. The piece at this point is basically brand new.
Another tip... if you must do the honing like that, pack the area around the rings with grease. Leave the piston a few degrees off bottom. After you have cleaned the cylinder, draw down the piston and chase the grease down as you wipe up the crud.
Another tip... if you must do the honing like that, pack the area around the rings with grease. Leave the piston a few degrees off bottom. After you have cleaned the cylinder, draw down the piston and chase the grease down as you wipe up the crud.
