P0016 Eco Timing Chain?
#23
Junior Member
Thread Starter
The only special tool that I used was the tool that holds the cams in position. I was going to make my own tool for this, but then I found a place that rents them for $75. I was willing to pay that and not have to fabricate something. In the end, as long as you get it back together timed correctly it doesn't matter how you hold the cams in place.
With that said, there are 2 seals in the front cover and Ford calls for special tools for their installation. One of the seals is a typical timing cover seal that the lip seals against the crankshaft pulley OD. I have installed these type seals many times (and did this time with success) by using a socket of appropriate size and gently tapping it in. As longs as you are gentle and don't deform the seal, you should be good to go.
The other seal in the cover is a bit different. It is a appears to be a rubber seal with an internal metal ring to hold shape. This seal goes around one of the water coolant tubes that through the cover to the water pump. It goes in pretty easy.
So far, I have no signs of a single drop of water/oil....or water in oil. So, I am hoping I am good.
On a separate note, I ordered a Livernois tuner last week (should be here tomorrow...and I can't wait!!!) as a gift to myself!
With that said, there are 2 seals in the front cover and Ford calls for special tools for their installation. One of the seals is a typical timing cover seal that the lip seals against the crankshaft pulley OD. I have installed these type seals many times (and did this time with success) by using a socket of appropriate size and gently tapping it in. As longs as you are gentle and don't deform the seal, you should be good to go.
The other seal in the cover is a bit different. It is a appears to be a rubber seal with an internal metal ring to hold shape. This seal goes around one of the water coolant tubes that through the cover to the water pump. It goes in pretty easy.
So far, I have no signs of a single drop of water/oil....or water in oil. So, I am hoping I am good.
On a separate note, I ordered a Livernois tuner last week (should be here tomorrow...and I can't wait!!!) as a gift to myself!
The following 2 users liked this post by SUVette:
Wisconsin Hillbilly (03-03-2015),
xaoc25 (09-09-2014)
#24
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Got the Livernois tune installed last night. I am currently running the 87 performance tune. I can tell a difference, without a doubt. Moving up to the 91 performance when I get couple tanks of 91 run through her. I bought the 93 performance also (which is apparently unreal), but I have no where near me to get 93
One other thing on the timing chain...somebody PM'd me and made me think of this.
===============================================
I highly recommend that once you get all the chains on and timed correctly you turn the motor over by hand a couple times slowly. This will just be extra insurance that you have it timed right...no piston/valve interference. You could easily cost yourself an engine if you were off on timing marks and hit the starter!
===============================================
One other thing on the timing chain...somebody PM'd me and made me think of this.
===============================================
I highly recommend that once you get all the chains on and timed correctly you turn the motor over by hand a couple times slowly. This will just be extra insurance that you have it timed right...no piston/valve interference. You could easily cost yourself an engine if you were off on timing marks and hit the starter!
===============================================
#25
Junior Member
Got the Livernois tune installed last night. I am currently running the 87 performance tune. I can tell a difference, without a doubt. Moving up to the 91 performance when I get couple tanks of 91 run through her. I bought the 93 performance also (which is apparently unreal), but I have no where near me to get 93
One other thing on the timing chain...somebody PM'd me and made me think of this.
===============================================
I highly recommend that once you get all the chains on and timed correctly you turn the motor over by hand a couple times slowly. This will just be extra insurance that you have it timed right...no piston/valve interference. You could easily cost yourself an engine if you were off on timing marks and hit the starter!
===============================================
One other thing on the timing chain...somebody PM'd me and made me think of this.
===============================================
I highly recommend that once you get all the chains on and timed correctly you turn the motor over by hand a couple times slowly. This will just be extra insurance that you have it timed right...no piston/valve interference. You could easily cost yourself an engine if you were off on timing marks and hit the starter!
===============================================
Last edited by xaoc25; 09-10-2014 at 12:48 PM.
#26
Junior Member
Thread Starter
As requested, here is the parts list I used. Please double check these before you pull the trigger in case I fat fingered something:
www.fordparts.com has very nice exploded views of all these parts.
I used the Ford specified RTV. I am guessing it is the same (except a lot more expensive) as any automotive grade RTV. I just chose to use it to be safe.
www.fordparts.com has very nice exploded views of all these parts.
I used the Ford specified RTV. I am guessing it is the same (except a lot more expensive) as any automotive grade RTV. I just chose to use it to be safe.
Last edited by SUVette; 09-10-2014 at 09:12 PM. Reason: Table messed up
#27
Junior Member
2014 Ford E-150 XL 4.6L V8 - Flex
2014 Ford E-150 Base 5.4L V8 - CNG
2014 Ford E-150 XLT 5.4L V8 - CNG
2014 Ford E-150 Base 5.4L V8 - LPG
2014 Ford E-150 XL 5.4L V8 - CNG
2014 Ford E-150 Base 4.6L V8 - Flex
2014 Ford E-150 XLT 5.4L V8 - Flex
2014 Ford E-150 Base 5.4L V8 - Flex
2014 Ford E-150 XL 5.4L V8 - LPG
2014 Ford E-150 XL 5.4L V8 - Flex
2014 Ford E-150 XLT 4.6L V8 - Flex
2014 Ford E-150 XLT 5.4L V8 - LPG
Engine Crankshaft Pulley Bolt - Ford (F5RZ-6A340-B)
Last edited by xaoc25; 09-11-2014 at 09:19 AM.
#29
There is a way to check timing chain tensioner wear by measuring the free movement of the crankshaft pulley counter clockwise to clockwise noting the free movement until resistance is felt an marking the pulley. This removes guess work about a problem. www.crankshaftcoalition.com. Navigate the site to camshaft an then timing chain. Click on and navigate the article down several paragraps.
For most of us out there:
I tend to believe chain guides and tensioners are damaged by whip caused from pulses by the HPFP. 9/32" wear on this hugely long chain after 65,000 miles just doesn't put the chain tensioner at full extension without the guide/tensioner damaged/worn. I have seen a lot of Ford chain guides/tensioners worn badly, broken, and even melted material off to the side on most head jobs. Perty much throw away parts. When you put that number over the 4 sprockets and count all the teeth it ratio's down perty short/small .000" of an inch. Roller chains reduce friction and wear.
Change motor oil more often and hold high RPM's down for extended times.
If it were faulty lubrication or timing chain the short ones would also be cooked as they travel long distances too and fast speeds and should be incredibly worn.
Oil and timing chain wear
Another source of timing chain problems is oil of the wrong viscosity or specifications. A lower viscosity oil will flow faster than a heavier oil, especially when cold. Engine designers specify lower viscosity oil to promote quicker flow. Many engines with timing chains now specify 0W20 oil viscosity. Quickly pressurizing the hydraulic tensioner keeps the chain tight and reduces guide breakage.
Timing chains also have very specific lubrication requirements. Modern engines with timing chains, may have oil specifications which only synthetic oil will meet. This is not an option or a suggestion. Oil that does not meet the requirements will cause timing chain wear and very expensive problems. This is even more critical on direct-injection engines, which may use the timing chain to drive the injector pump. Extra load on the chain, combined with insufficient oil, is a recipe for disaster. All 2011 and later GM engines require oil that meets the dexos specification. Not using dexos may result is engine failure that is not covered under the GM warranty.
Even Jaguar wore out the valves not the timing chain first.
All of the above has me wondering about 5W20 and its role in the original 3.5L EB motor for passenger cars.
For me, I believe the CAmshaft driven pulse/plunger fuel pump is a mistake at higher RPM's especially causing timing chain to receive added loads.
For most of us out there:
I tend to believe chain guides and tensioners are damaged by whip caused from pulses by the HPFP. 9/32" wear on this hugely long chain after 65,000 miles just doesn't put the chain tensioner at full extension without the guide/tensioner damaged/worn. I have seen a lot of Ford chain guides/tensioners worn badly, broken, and even melted material off to the side on most head jobs. Perty much throw away parts. When you put that number over the 4 sprockets and count all the teeth it ratio's down perty short/small .000" of an inch. Roller chains reduce friction and wear.
Change motor oil more often and hold high RPM's down for extended times.
If it were faulty lubrication or timing chain the short ones would also be cooked as they travel long distances too and fast speeds and should be incredibly worn.
Oil and timing chain wear
Another source of timing chain problems is oil of the wrong viscosity or specifications. A lower viscosity oil will flow faster than a heavier oil, especially when cold. Engine designers specify lower viscosity oil to promote quicker flow. Many engines with timing chains now specify 0W20 oil viscosity. Quickly pressurizing the hydraulic tensioner keeps the chain tight and reduces guide breakage.
Timing chains also have very specific lubrication requirements. Modern engines with timing chains, may have oil specifications which only synthetic oil will meet. This is not an option or a suggestion. Oil that does not meet the requirements will cause timing chain wear and very expensive problems. This is even more critical on direct-injection engines, which may use the timing chain to drive the injector pump. Extra load on the chain, combined with insufficient oil, is a recipe for disaster. All 2011 and later GM engines require oil that meets the dexos specification. Not using dexos may result is engine failure that is not covered under the GM warranty.
Even Jaguar wore out the valves not the timing chain first.
All of the above has me wondering about 5W20 and its role in the original 3.5L EB motor for passenger cars.
For me, I believe the CAmshaft driven pulse/plunger fuel pump is a mistake at higher RPM's especially causing timing chain to receive added loads.
Last edited by papa tiger; 10-20-2014 at 12:47 AM.
#30
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Papa Tiger,
I like your whipping timing chain theory. So, do you think that the timing chain whips (aka gets slack in it) and then the tensioner comes out to take up that slack? Then when the slack it relieved it is causing extra force on the tensioner/tensioning arm?
I just have to wonder why Ford never saw this in there testing. The torture test they did (if they truly did all that) sounded like it was pretty horrendous. After the entire torture test, they only showed 3 teeth on their tensioner?
I like your whipping timing chain theory. So, do you think that the timing chain whips (aka gets slack in it) and then the tensioner comes out to take up that slack? Then when the slack it relieved it is causing extra force on the tensioner/tensioning arm?
I just have to wonder why Ford never saw this in there testing. The torture test they did (if they truly did all that) sounded like it was pretty horrendous. After the entire torture test, they only showed 3 teeth on their tensioner?