I’m not really sure if it’s an issue or just the normal old but slow of these trucks. I can’t even break my tires loose if I stomp on it from a stop. If I’m doing 60 and stomp on it, it won’t downshift to speed up it’ll just slowly go faster.

In the past while chasing other issues I had replaced the throttle position sensor. I also added zip ties to the accelerator cable at the gas pedal to take up the slack of it being old and stretched, now considering just getting a new accelerator cable.

The truck drives pretty great, on my old worn mud tires I used to be able to break them loose from stop but I can’t anymore with these new falken wildpeaks, maybe they’re just too new still and couple that with how the truck has wimpy 3.31 gears with 31x10.5r15.

Still would like it to downshift when I give it the beans at highway speeds though.

Any thoughts?

95 302 reg cab short bed

 

Check for codes: when my check engine light was on for emissions issues there were a bunch of tranny codes, too. Turned out only one code was for a faulty component (map sensor died) and the rest were from the ecu crapping out. New brain solved everything else, and suddenly my ‘wimpy’ tranny became a badass.

 

FWIW, not sure what the HP specs on the Gen9 were, my Gen8 5.0L was rated at 185hp.

Getting around to my never being able to scratch a tire with a 3.55 axle and the 31x10.50 tires.

No idea about the downshift issue, presuming you have the E4OD tranny. Agree with the previous post about checking the codes for hopeful enlightenment. Regardless of HP, it should get that downshifting part right.

 

I believe it’s about the same. 185-190hp. From the tag it’s a 4r70w. I’ll check out the codes this weekend when I replace the leaf springs and do a diff fluid swap.

 

Never mind, I did it today.

I get 565, 211, 212, 656 from the innova code reader.

About two years ago I did replace the entire distributor, the PIP sensor failed. I replaced the sensor but was concerned about the state of the dizzy after I replaced it for having to beat the ever living fvck out of it to get everything back together. Found a deal on a new dizzy so I threw that in. I do still have the old “original” dizzy (not sure if original but original to when I got the truck). I believe it’s the only non motorcraft thing I’ve replaced on this truck. New motorcraft coil and plugs and wires. I have not replaced the tfi module.

I’ll have to check the transmission level tomorrow or this weekend, I did do a full drain and fill and replaced the filter last summer.

Haven’t touched anything with the purge solenoid except fix some vacuum lines a year or two ago if that makes any difference.

how can I clear the codes and start fresh to know what’s still throwing codes? Or does it not work like that for these trucks?

 

I remember running the codes multiple times because I kept getting that “10” and it was throwing me off.
According to Haynes…
565: canister purge circuit
(electrical failure, not mechanical)
211: profile ignition Pick-up circuit fault
(again electrical)
212: ignition module circuit failure / SPOUT circuit grounded
656: torque converter clutch continuous slip error
That last is not one of the codes I had, and may well be an actual mechanical issue.
I’ve seen the forums advise cracking open the brain on this generation and looking for “leaking capacitors” numerous times. I opted to shell out less than $100 to replace mine and resolved all but one code (the one that didn’t go away was due to coolant in the intake stream blitzing a sensor).

 

I did have a friend replace the capacitors last summer when I was chasing something else that ended up being a dead cylinder number 7 and new heads.

 

Pretty sure the clear procedure for codes is in the Haynes, ought to be in Chilton’s, too. I don’t have my book handy. BTW, if there is a blown cap in the ecm, the codes it thinks are happening because of that will come right back.

 

They’re all new. Shouldn’t be an issue.