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tools for brake change?

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Old Jul 18, 2011 | 12:44 AM
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I have a 93 f150 4x4 long bed and I have noticed over the past week or two has developed a slight grinding noise (very quiet and sounds similar to sharpening a knife) when applying the brakes at a slow speeds, it sounds like its coming from the front end when I have the window rolled down. I was told a year ago when I bought it the owner thought it would need new brakes soon. I have changed brakes on several vehicles before but at that time I had a larger tool collection and since then I had a tool box stolen so I have more home repair type tools now. Is there anything out of the ordinary required for a front brake job, or am I good with a standard set of wrenches and sockets?

Other question is how much of a requirement is new rotors or turning the rotors? I drive this truck maybe 10-20 miles a week tops and I only plan on having it for maybe a year or two more and then I will send it to the junk yard. I bought this thing as a beater to run to the hardware store and dump and by next summer I should hopefully be done with my home remodel job so I really dont want to put extra money into this truck.

side note, this was my first F150 and even though its a beater I love it, and when I actually do get rid of it, I plan on buying a newish low millage F150 that I could probably keep for the next 20 years or so My buddy has a band new Silverado and I would take my beater over it any day haha!
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Old Jul 18, 2011 | 12:54 AM
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Originally Posted by cbzdel
I have a 93 f150 4x4 long bed and I have noticed over the past week or two has developed a slight grinding noise (very quiet and sounds similar to sharpening a knife) when applying the brakes at a slow speeds, it sounds like its coming from the front end when I have the window rolled down. I was told a year ago when I bought it the owner thought it would need new brakes soon. I have changed brakes on several vehicles before but at that time I had a larger tool collection and since then I had a tool box stolen so I have more home repair type tools now. Is there anything out of the ordinary required for a front brake job, or am I good with a standard set of wrenches and sockets?

Other question is how much of a requirement is new rotors or turning the rotors? I drive this truck maybe 10-20 miles a week tops and I only plan on having it for maybe a year or two more and then I will send it to the junk yard. I bought this thing as a beater to run to the hardware store and dump and by next summer I should hopefully be done with my home remodel job so I really dont want to put extra money into this truck.

side note, this was my first F150 and even though its a beater I love it, and when I actually do get rid of it, I plan on buying a newish low millage F150 that I could probably keep for the next 20 years or so My buddy has a band new Silverado and I would take my beater over it any day haha!
for replacing the front brakes you will need to remove the manual locking hubs and you will need a special tool for the spring lock most stores carry it along with an Allan keys for the outside after that its just about the same as any other brake job. buy new rotors don't turn them for a few bucks more its just better. look up how to remove the manual hubs there are a few steps to that.
I bet you 20 bucks your f150 will have been on the road longer then that new silverado. 18 years for your truck 1 for the silverado LOL
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Old Jul 19, 2011 | 02:11 AM
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just to ask, if I dont change or turn the rotor and just slapped on new pads what happens? if the rotors are decent I would expect nothing, if my rotors are not the best I could see a squeaking and possible premature wear on the pads? again just looking to save money on a truck thats close to its end of days. gotta love the saying no reason to beat a dead horse haha.

thanks again!
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Old Jul 19, 2011 | 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by cbzdel
just to ask, if I dont change or turn the rotor and just slapped on new pads what happens? if the rotors are decent I would expect nothing, if my rotors are not the best I could see a squeaking and possible premature wear on the pads? again just looking to save money on a truck thats close to its end of days. gotta love the saying no reason to beat a dead horse haha.

thanks again!
its best to chage the rotors its 20 bucks for a rotor. you might get pulsating which will not be safe at all.

why would you want to save money on something that makes it so you can stop a ton of metal?
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Old Jul 19, 2011 | 11:06 AM
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gotcha, makes total since.. I am just being cheap at the wrong time..
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Old Jul 19, 2011 | 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by cbzdel
gotcha, makes total since.. I am just being cheap at the wrong time..
LOL id say so it sucks trust me I have my dream truck and its slowly decaying underneath me. Its ok though i have some cash coming my way soon and its going to get fixed up right!
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Old Jul 19, 2011 | 02:00 PM
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I know you said you've done brake jobs before so I may be saying something you already know but make sure to check the slides on the calipers, if seized or working improperly your brake pads may be applying themselves unequally on the rotor.
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Old Jul 19, 2011 | 05:22 PM
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At my local Napa loaded calipers are around $40.00, the rotors are about the same. Without turning or replacing the rotor you will more than likely have a bad pulsing when braking, or you could just spit out one of the pads.
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Old Jul 19, 2011 | 05:37 PM
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If you can live with a pedal pulsation, just go ahead and put in new pads, it will work just fine. Metric sockets are required along with a large pair of pliers or C clamp to push pistons back into place. Rotors do not have to be removed for pad replacement. Unbolt calyper and replace pads.
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Old Jul 21, 2011 | 01:28 PM
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Wife talked me into taking it into a shop, I have a pretty busy schedule and really the last thing I need is a longer to do list.. Well the shop just called...

The MUST fix list:
-front brake lines cracked and leaking
-1 caliper is jammed and not even working, and the other is not working properly and pushing the pad at an angle
-1 rotor ruined from the caliper, the other is below min. tolerance for turning
-front pads as well

None of this is a shock at all but for me that would be a whole weekend of work, the total bill on everything just about $620

Now for the well it will work for now but you might wanna fix:
-Rear axle seals leaking, but no sign that its affecting rear brakes
-right rear brake line bent and not getting much fluid to brakes
-No self adjuster cable on rear brakes

That lists adds another $200 to the bill but he told me he is confident that if I dont use this truck as a daily driver it should be fine for another couple thousand miles. Which is great because in the year I have owned it, its only had 2200 miles put on it.

After putting this whole front brake system on it, it makes me not want to get rid of the truck so soon, to bad its still burning oil/smoking when it heats up
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