Timing mark not jiving
06-05-2016, 08:44 PM
#1
Timing mark not jiving
Help eliminate my codes thread what?
Still not sure about those but I thought I had a timing issue so I pulled distributor again and restabbed. Well I forgot to confirm compression stroke so no start. So turn crank again and re stab distributor.
No start. This time pull plug and confirm compression now put long probe in cylinder to confirm the tdc.
Now the problem is that the timing Mark on the balancer does not line up with timing sight hole.
Any ideas?
Do I make my own new Mark and restab distrib again
Not really sure. Any help would be appreciated
Thanks mike
Still not sure about those but I thought I had a timing issue so I pulled distributor again and restabbed. Well I forgot to confirm compression stroke so no start. So turn crank again and re stab distributor.
No start. This time pull plug and confirm compression now put long probe in cylinder to confirm the tdc.
Now the problem is that the timing Mark on the balancer does not line up with timing sight hole.
Any ideas?
Do I make my own new Mark and restab distrib again
Not really sure. Any help would be appreciated
Thanks mike
06-06-2016, 06:06 PM
#3
I've been doing some reading at this site.
http://www.streetrodlife.com/tech/un...nition-timing/
Someone surely has to know more than I do. At least I would like to get some thoughts.
Once the piston reaches the top of its travel apparently there is a period of time that the crank revolves and the piston lags before it descends. The question is how much.
After messing around with it more and thinking about it. I wander if it is possible that the piston reached the top of the compression stroke and the timing Mark actually lined up right but there was enough lag between the time that me helper says that the piston is at the top and I was still moving the crank and the piston stayed stationary making it appear to me to be way out of time. The question then becomes why when I had the timing light hooked up that I could not see the mark?
Also why when I stabbed the distributor twice the first would have been 180 out the next full revolution it would have to be right or at least I think. It didn't start either time.
http://www.streetrodlife.com/tech/un...nition-timing/
Someone surely has to know more than I do. At least I would like to get some thoughts.
Once the piston reaches the top of its travel apparently there is a period of time that the crank revolves and the piston lags before it descends. The question is how much.
After messing around with it more and thinking about it. I wander if it is possible that the piston reached the top of the compression stroke and the timing Mark actually lined up right but there was enough lag between the time that me helper says that the piston is at the top and I was still moving the crank and the piston stayed stationary making it appear to me to be way out of time. The question then becomes why when I had the timing light hooked up that I could not see the mark?
Also why when I stabbed the distributor twice the first would have been 180 out the next full revolution it would have to be right or at least I think. It didn't start either time.
06-06-2016, 08:24 PM
#4
I suppose at this point (as I have read of it happening) the harmonic balancer could have failed thus giving me a false indication of TDC. So it looks like I have two options. One is pull the manifold back off pull the valve cover and verify valve position, in relation to timing mark, if it is off then make my own. The other would be to replace the balancer. If I choose the former and the balancer is faulty, could things get worse with it?
06-06-2016, 09:24 PM
#5
Go back to basics one more time.
First, clean up the timing marks on your vibration damper so you can easily read them. Mark 12 degrees before TDC with white paint or chalk.
Confirm that you are on the compression stroke - screw a compression tester into # 1 if you have to, it's the right front just to verify.
Now slowly turn it until you reach 12 degrees before TDC measured at the pointer, not the little sight hole.
Now install the distributor starting a little counter clockwise so that when it goes in it will be pointing at #1 spark plug wire.
Check that the little bump on the rotor shaft is lining up with dead center of the pickup PIP - you'll see where the spot is.
Now it should fire.
Turn it off, pull the SPOUT plug, set the timing to 12 deg. BTDC using the pointer, shut it off and reinstall the SPOUT.
If that doesn't work, you have a different problem. Vibration damper isn't that difficult to change. You just need a puller.
First, clean up the timing marks on your vibration damper so you can easily read them. Mark 12 degrees before TDC with white paint or chalk.
Confirm that you are on the compression stroke - screw a compression tester into # 1 if you have to, it's the right front just to verify.
Now slowly turn it until you reach 12 degrees before TDC measured at the pointer, not the little sight hole.
Now install the distributor starting a little counter clockwise so that when it goes in it will be pointing at #1 spark plug wire.
Check that the little bump on the rotor shaft is lining up with dead center of the pickup PIP - you'll see where the spot is.
Now it should fire.
Turn it off, pull the SPOUT plug, set the timing to 12 deg. BTDC using the pointer, shut it off and reinstall the SPOUT.
If that doesn't work, you have a different problem. Vibration damper isn't that difficult to change. You just need a puller.
06-07-2016, 01:25 PM
#6
I am not sure about bump on rotor shaft I never paid any attention before. Of course when I replaced distributor I just pulled old out and put new exactly the same.
I only have a notch in my damper. Unfortunately the only way I can build up pressure is by turning key. By hand I can't get anything.
Is this bump that is supposed to be dead center of pip which is inside distributor (right) moveable. Just a little retarded today. I am not understand what or why.
If looking at the front of the truck and the damper rotates clockwise then I would think the sight hole would represent the degree mark BTDC and the pointer would represent 0 degree TDC. Right or wrong that's the way I see it. I do not have a problem being wrong, just want to understand.
Thoughts?
I only have a notch in my damper. Unfortunately the only way I can build up pressure is by turning key. By hand I can't get anything.
Is this bump that is supposed to be dead center of pip which is inside distributor (right) moveable. Just a little retarded today. I am not understand what or why.
If looking at the front of the truck and the damper rotates clockwise then I would think the sight hole would represent the degree mark BTDC and the pointer would represent 0 degree TDC. Right or wrong that's the way I see it. I do not have a problem being wrong, just want to understand.
Thoughts?
Last edited by okc lube man; 06-07-2016 at 07:33 PM.
06-07-2016, 09:42 PM
#7
The little round gunsight thing is not for you to use. You will use the point.
Your damper will have a large notch - that is not the timing mark.
Clean your vibration damper up until you find the timing marks - there are actual marks (lines) and numbers for both before and after TDC.
If you haven't found the lines and numbers yet, you're not done looking.
Your damper will have a large notch - that is not the timing mark.
Clean your vibration damper up until you find the timing marks - there are actual marks (lines) and numbers for both before and after TDC.
If you haven't found the lines and numbers yet, you're not done looking.
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06-11-2016, 09:05 AM
#9
I feel just a little dumb right now! This is not the first time I have used a timing light or seen the degree scale on the damper. As soon as I rotated by hand cleaning each little section and finally uncovering those marks it hit me like a brick. I knew it was on the compression stroke as my soon on the previous attempt told me he felt it pushing on finger. So a little more rotation and re stabbed dizzy and she fired right up.
I knew something was off because this thing was running before. Thanks for the wake up Chris1!
I knew something was off because this thing was running before. Thanks for the wake up Chris1!
06-12-2016, 09:16 AM
#10
If it helps any, I just had to point that same thing out to someone else yesterday. He was using the big notch as well - swore up and down that there were no degrees marked on the V/D. So we grabbed one off the shelf, hit it with the wire wheel and lo and behold !