As many may know I have been chasing a run ability issue. I have KOER 311.

Today I checked vac on solenoids and valves. The bypass valve will not hold any vacuum. At idle and under rpm's manifold vacuum is doing exactly what it should. I thought I may have a clogged cat but according to the test that does not seem to be the case.

Is the piping of the bypass valve such that if it has a vacuum leak that and I disconnect the vac that it would leak in other ways to cause a somewhat rough idle and a decent miss or roughness at 1500 + or- rpm's? I hope that makes sense.

 

I bought the new valve. Should be here Thursday and in by the weekend. I'm still not sure if this is truly my problem. If the check valves that are in the smog system were bad would these cause my missing and bucking/jerking issue while driving?

 

Well this morning before work I pulled air plenum and realized I have the combination valve. Should have confirmed before I ordered the wrong part.
However I decided to pull vac again. I could not get to that valve before and when I replaced vac lines this one still had part of the old on it and of course with everything together it was leaking. Probably why I got that code.

Well now that I've got it apart and I can get to those check valves, how do I check them?

My problems existed before I replaced vac lines. Should I assume that this was the issue all along and put it back together and see what happens? All in all it does not take that long to pull air plenum. I just hate doing it over and over.

My thinking has of late been that with the bucking and jerking while driving and with my air system code that maybe a check valve was bad letting exhaust come back. But if this is not common then I would probably rule it out.

If thaw vac leak was not issue could it be electrical?

Looking for you salty ones to chime in with your expertise.

 

Not sure if this is issue. On to a new thread.

 

Have you looked at the coffee can yet? Is it rusty or cracked?

 

It is good. It holds vacuum.