SUCCESS!!-sort of..
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
From: carolina
SUCCESS!!-sort of..
Well a couple of months ago i bought my truck from an auction for 1800. The tranny has been shifting really hard enough for my family to nickname it old blue jerk. Well i replaced the fuse for the interior lights and darn near caught it on fire in walmarts parking lot. The drivers door sill started smoking with a nice little flame starting. Had to spit on it to put it out 
. Anyway, found out the joker who had it last installed a set of steps and drilled the bolts right through the wiring harness shorting and melting everything there. This weekend, i took the time and redid all those and what do you know she shifts like a dream. No more od light flashing but i still have a CE light. Ran the codes and this is what I have. Now i did a search and found some things to try out but the major things i havent found any info on at all.
KOEO
332 EGR VLV- I took it apart and made sure the diaphram works. The solenoid is free but I didnt feel any vaccum. The engine did change though when my thumb was on the end or when it wasnt.
KOER
311 thermactor air system inop bank 1 ???
332
538 cyl balance test fail- scan tool kept saying to rerun the test and it would pop this all the time. so i dont know???
536 Brake on/off switch circuit fault ???
632 transmission control switch no state change- this is the one im most concerned with. My gas gage does not like me right now. My other car is parked and i drive about 60 miles one way to work. I still feel as though the engine is running on the high side(no tach unfortunately). I put in lucas oil in the tranny when i first got it to help the shifting and now I cant hardly tell what gear im in. So pretty much i dont know if its getting into OD or not.
With the egr thing im going to check out the vaccum lines but is there a way to test the solenoid? I was looking in my haynes manual from my old ranger and there wasnt one.
Other than that if anyone can help me out with this I would really appreciate it.
Thanks.
Oh by the way its a 1995 f150 5.8 auto 4x4 extra cab (old blue).
. Anyway, found out the joker who had it last installed a set of steps and drilled the bolts right through the wiring harness shorting and melting everything there. This weekend, i took the time and redid all those and what do you know she shifts like a dream. No more od light flashing but i still have a CE light. Ran the codes and this is what I have. Now i did a search and found some things to try out but the major things i havent found any info on at all. KOEO
332 EGR VLV- I took it apart and made sure the diaphram works. The solenoid is free but I didnt feel any vaccum. The engine did change though when my thumb was on the end or when it wasnt.
KOER
311 thermactor air system inop bank 1 ???
332
538 cyl balance test fail- scan tool kept saying to rerun the test and it would pop this all the time. so i dont know???
536 Brake on/off switch circuit fault ???
632 transmission control switch no state change- this is the one im most concerned with. My gas gage does not like me right now. My other car is parked and i drive about 60 miles one way to work. I still feel as though the engine is running on the high side(no tach unfortunately). I put in lucas oil in the tranny when i first got it to help the shifting and now I cant hardly tell what gear im in. So pretty much i dont know if its getting into OD or not.
With the egr thing im going to check out the vaccum lines but is there a way to test the solenoid? I was looking in my haynes manual from my old ranger and there wasnt one.
Other than that if anyone can help me out with this I would really appreciate it.
Thanks.
Oh by the way its a 1995 f150 5.8 auto 4x4 extra cab (old blue).
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
From: carolina
Any help from out there? I dont know if im missing the correct keywords for the search but Im not finding anything to help much. 
The other thing i was wondering is for those that have the manual shifter for the 4wd, is it hard to move it? I dont really know what im in. Its either 2h or 4wd. The light 4x4 comes on if you just bump it and that is what im wondering is sucking down my gas tank but for the life of me I cant get it to shift forward any more. Any suggestions??
Thanks
The other thing i was wondering is for those that have the manual shifter for the 4wd, is it hard to move it? I dont really know what im in. Its either 2h or 4wd. The light 4x4 comes on if you just bump it and that is what im wondering is sucking down my gas tank but for the life of me I cant get it to shift forward any more. Any suggestions??Thanks
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 3,805
Likes: 480
From: Cape Girardeau MO
The control solenoid that provides vacuum for the EGR sometimes fails - just follow the vacuum line from the EGR.
Not sure if your model year still has it, but there is also a position sensor on top of the EGR valve that can get flaky - if so, and you choose to replace it - be sure to note the color and get the same color in kind.
Not sure about the cylinder balance test - on my 2-digit OBD-I series - this test cut off the fuel to injectors one at a time, looking for RPM drop. The cylinders that didn't drop an appropriate amount of RPM were flagged as not sharing the load.
Brake on/off fault - again, relating to the OBD-I test procedure for mine - there are points during the test where you're supposed to stomp on the brake, twist the steering wheel, and pop the accelerator. Failing to do so at the right time yields a fault.
Tranny control fault - no idea here. Suggest you should know by the feel when it goes into and comes out of OD. Not a big fan of additives here.
Hope this helps - and keep us posted!
Not sure if your model year still has it, but there is also a position sensor on top of the EGR valve that can get flaky - if so, and you choose to replace it - be sure to note the color and get the same color in kind.
Not sure about the cylinder balance test - on my 2-digit OBD-I series - this test cut off the fuel to injectors one at a time, looking for RPM drop. The cylinders that didn't drop an appropriate amount of RPM were flagged as not sharing the load.
Brake on/off fault - again, relating to the OBD-I test procedure for mine - there are points during the test where you're supposed to stomp on the brake, twist the steering wheel, and pop the accelerator. Failing to do so at the right time yields a fault.
Tranny control fault - no idea here. Suggest you should know by the feel when it goes into and comes out of OD. Not a big fan of additives here.
Hope this helps - and keep us posted!
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
From: carolina
well thank you for some insight.
I understand about the different inputs that you are supposed to do in a normal KOER test as i have done them many times before. However this was the first time using a snap on scan tool that my uncle lent me to figure this out and it never said to do any of the normal things. It just said to start test and you could hear that it was doing different things itself. Im not too sure that these codes are too legit due to this. I may back up the finding by doing it the old fashion way and read the CE light which is what im used to doing. I was just wondering if anyone could tell me anything about it. I have found out that the tranny control switch is the switch that turns OD on or off on the end of the gear shifter. Don t know why this would fail but also the brake on/off switch would be part of the step of stepping on the brake. Dont know. I do know that with the noreaster going on right now and driving through puddles that something does not like water as the tranny starts to act funny. Give it a few hours to dry and its back to normal.
I shall have to take a look at the egr system. I did take apart the solenoid from the egr valve and made sure that it could move freely but I really dont understand that if this is the only legit fault i have how is it affecting the engine performance and transmission performance? From what I understand the egr system sends some amount of exhaust back through to get re-burned if you will to lower emissions. The snap on tool was also listing codes in order of precedence to fix first and this was it. Confusing.
If anyone has any other insight to share I would appreciate it. I was wondering if anyone may have a diagram of where all the sensors are located on the truck. I found one in a site called fix ya but cant get it to blow up enough to be readable.
Thanks a lot
I understand about the different inputs that you are supposed to do in a normal KOER test as i have done them many times before. However this was the first time using a snap on scan tool that my uncle lent me to figure this out and it never said to do any of the normal things. It just said to start test and you could hear that it was doing different things itself. Im not too sure that these codes are too legit due to this. I may back up the finding by doing it the old fashion way and read the CE light which is what im used to doing. I was just wondering if anyone could tell me anything about it. I have found out that the tranny control switch is the switch that turns OD on or off on the end of the gear shifter. Don t know why this would fail but also the brake on/off switch would be part of the step of stepping on the brake. Dont know. I do know that with the noreaster going on right now and driving through puddles that something does not like water as the tranny starts to act funny. Give it a few hours to dry and its back to normal.
I shall have to take a look at the egr system. I did take apart the solenoid from the egr valve and made sure that it could move freely but I really dont understand that if this is the only legit fault i have how is it affecting the engine performance and transmission performance? From what I understand the egr system sends some amount of exhaust back through to get re-burned if you will to lower emissions. The snap on tool was also listing codes in order of precedence to fix first and this was it. Confusing.
If anyone has any other insight to share I would appreciate it. I was wondering if anyone may have a diagram of where all the sensors are located on the truck. I found one in a site called fix ya but cant get it to blow up enough to be readable.
Thanks a lot