Alright tonight I tested the pressure again. After turning the key on and off three times the gauge showed just over 5psi. I feel like it should have been more in the 28-45 psi range like the book said. Also after turning the key on and off several more times it made it up to 15 psi. It took probably 2 mins for the gauge to slowly rise to the 15 psi reading. I let it sit for about 45 mins and when I looked at the gauge it said 10 psi so it did decrease. What do you guys think about this? Before I could test the pressure while running I tore the iac and throttle body off to clean them off. They were a mess. Another big question I have is how dis both my fuel pumps, dual tanks, go bad in one evening? Is this problem really my fuel pumps? I have two pumps correct? This problem occurs using either tank. I really appreciate all of your help. Please keep the advise and opinions coming!

 

The truck is still missing at lower rpms while driving when the engine isnt warm yet. It usualy only happened when driving around town but i noticed that when the engine is cold and im going about 50 at around 1500 rpm it feels like someone is tapping the brake which i assume means its missing. Ill see if it starts better after i get the iac and throttle body back on tonight

 

Something i just thought of.......most of the time when the truck isnt starting i can sit there and crank it over for thirty seconds and get nothing close to it starting but as soon as i let the key turn back to the ON position the truck will start to fire up and stumble a little for a second or two trying to start. Is it possible for the ignition switch in the key tumbler to be bad? As in the fuel pump is building pressure when the key is in the ON position but its so worn out that when the key is turned to the START position that its not getting a connection to keep the fuel pump running? This is just a thought. If anyone knows more details about this that would be great. thanks

 

That's a good observation. I had a similiar issue with my boat. It would start, but then die in the on position. I was losing power to the coil in the on position.
I'm having pretty much having the exact same issue with my 95 right now, but very intermittent. It can go weeks, then won't start for an entire day or start again after a minute or so. It's starting a little rough just like yours. When mine wasn't starting for that day, I was using a remote starter switch with the key in the "on" position. Had my votages and my fuel pump was energized. I never touched the key while I was checking signals, then it started once I went to check the spout signal. I will not have time until the weekend to mess with the rough start issue. But, I will let you know.
Randy C

 

I got my throttle body and everything else back on. No luck. The engine turns over with nothing close to firing and then when I move the key from the start to the on position it almost fires up. I will get combustion as soon as I turn the key back to the on position but its not enough to fire it up all the way. The pump comes on when you turn the key to the on position and then when you turn Tue key to start, the pump never comes back on even if you let it crank for a min. But as soon as the key turns back to the on position you can hear the pump kick right back on. I think my ignition system is bad and I don't know much about it. If the ignition switch, key tumbler, is worn out will that cause the pump to not run when in the start position? You you know how to test this or where to look please let me know. Thanks for your help.

 

Thanks to everyone for their help! I wanted to finish this thread with the solution. It ended up being the timing was off. I guess the distributor moved a little or something but I set it again and all seems well. Thanks again to those that helped.