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Starter issues...

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Old Aug 31, 2018 | 07:41 PM
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Default Starter issues...

Up until about 4 weeks ago, I finished buttoning up my 351 swap. Then I started having issues with my starter...I'd have to tap it a few times to get it to start. So I replaced it with a brand new(not reman) starter from Advance Auto (Car Quest). After installing it and firing her up I noticed that the starter would occasionally grind against the flywheel, so I shimmed it up....and it still would grind so I went back and exchanged the starter a second time. This time no grinding but the starter cog was staying "engaged" to the flywheel after start up.So back a third time to replace the starter yet again.......and the third starter doesn't grind either but is still engaging the flywheel.... PLEASE HELP!!!
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Old Sep 1, 2018 | 05:53 AM
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After rereading my thread I need to rephrase a few things...the first new starter would hit against the flywheel teeth instead of engaging smoothly; I'd have to blip it once or twice before it would engage the flywheel teeth. The second and now third starters engage the teeth on the flywheel and the engine starts great, but it seems as though the starters cog is free wheeling along with the flywheel and there is a slight "rubbing or hissing" sound in the bellhousing.....
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Old Sep 1, 2018 | 12:10 PM
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Ford starters don't require shimming. But there is a different starter for manuals than automatics (within each type of starter for each engine). If Advance can't sell you a good one, return it, and get a MotorCraft (from anywhere):


(phone app link)


But it's critical that ALL the starting circuit is working properly, including the relay & battery (terminals).


(phone app link)



(phone app link)



(phone app link)
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Old Sep 1, 2018 | 01:58 PM
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Ford starters don't require shimming. But there is a different starter for manuals than automatics (within each type of starter for each engine). If Advance can't sell you a good one, return it, and get a MotorCraft (from anywhere)....But it's critical that ALL the starting circuit is working properly, including the relay & battery (terminals)
All three starters were for a '95 F250 with a 351 and standard shift 5 speed. I just installed a new relay and installed military style battery terminals along with slightly thicker gauge battery cables....
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Old Sep 1, 2018 | 05:12 PM
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IDK what you mean by "military style" - got a link or photo? And the cables aren't the problem - it's the CONNECTION between the cable & battery post. Most aftermarket cables (regardless of size) have very poor connections (as the captions in that album explain).
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Old Sep 1, 2018 | 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Steve83
IDK what you mean by "military style" - got a link or photo? And the cables aren't the problem - it's the CONNECTION between the cable & battery post. Most aftermarket cables (regardless of size) have very poor connections (as the captions in that album explain).
Here's a pic....




BTW, I found out my problem; after my starter died, I got a new starter from Advance. When the counter guy there asked me what I needed I told him a starter for a 1995 F150 with a 351. Since F150s with a 351 came with automatics, that's what I got. This time I asked for and got a starter for a 1995 F350 with a 351 and a standard transmission and it works!!!
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Old Sep 2, 2018 | 12:03 PM
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Those add points of connection (insertion loss, corrosion, etc.) between the battery & truck, so NOT the best. But if you keep them clean (electrical grease will help) and tight, they should be OK.
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