starter or alternator?
I have a 1988 F150 that was running fine a couple days ago but now isn't turning over. I got it jump started and the battery was holding its charge. Then it wouldn't start again. I replaced the battery, but when I turn the key I get just a quick grind and click, then the running lights, dashboard lights go out and door-ajar bell goes silent. A few minutes later, these all come back and the battery meter says it has a charge. Does this sound like I should replace the starter? (I figured it would be starting then running the battery down if it were a bad alternator.)
Please let me know when you get a chance. Hopefully before the snow comes, so I can have this thing ready to plow!
Please let me know when you get a chance. Hopefully before the snow comes, so I can have this thing ready to plow!
might be a combination of both, but the grind sounds like a starter, but it could also be from the dead battery. The starter will click when the battery is dead.
The battery not holding charge could be an alternator, or could be a bad cell in the battery.
The battery not holding charge could be an alternator, or could be a bad cell in the battery.
When I read the title, (starter or alternator?), I said "this boy needs some help". I'm sure Techrep felt the same. But thats why the question.
You have already sort of performed my little (no tools necessary) self test. Turn on headlights and even beep the horn while engaging the starter. If lights and horn still function and engine won't crank, its a starter or circuit issue. If they turn off, as yours is doing, its a battery or charging issue.
Now comes the fun, first and formost clean the battery terminals, don't just look at them, disconnect both and clean with a suitable tool. Two types are available, the wire brush, perfect for most jobs, and the other is the scraper, best for older cables as it resets the angle necessary to match the taperred battery posts. Clean connections are a must as a corroded terminal has a bigger effect in restricting the alternators charging current than it does in restricting the starters current draw.
Have the battery load tested at a parts house, just make sure its fully charged. They just love to sell batteries.
No comment at this time on the starter noise, first things first.
You have already sort of performed my little (no tools necessary) self test. Turn on headlights and even beep the horn while engaging the starter. If lights and horn still function and engine won't crank, its a starter or circuit issue. If they turn off, as yours is doing, its a battery or charging issue.
Now comes the fun, first and formost clean the battery terminals, don't just look at them, disconnect both and clean with a suitable tool. Two types are available, the wire brush, perfect for most jobs, and the other is the scraper, best for older cables as it resets the angle necessary to match the taperred battery posts. Clean connections are a must as a corroded terminal has a bigger effect in restricting the alternators charging current than it does in restricting the starters current draw.
Have the battery load tested at a parts house, just make sure its fully charged. They just love to sell batteries.
No comment at this time on the starter noise, first things first.
Since it's a brand new battery--the terminals are clean and it is still holding the charge--that seemed to narrow it down to the starter. I'll pull it today and get it bench tested. Hoping it's that, since that seems a lot simpler than tracking down a bad wire or connection.
I'm new to the F150 world, so thanks for the quick feedback, guys. Appreciate it.
I'm new to the F150 world, so thanks for the quick feedback, guys. Appreciate it.
I still wouldn't rule out the cables, even if the connections are clean. Especially if they're factory cables an it being 23 yrs old. My 91 had starting and charging issues when I bought it in February. Connections were clean at both ends, i thought they were still good. After throwing a new battery, newer model PMGR starter from a 92 model in the parts store computer, and a few starter solenoids at it and trying a known good alternator. That all but ruled out the cables themselves. I replaced my battery positve, battery negative to frame, solenoid to starter, frame to engine, engine body and body to frame cables with 0/1 AWG premade cables from the parts store in appropriate lengths. Be a good thing to check, but I'm not saying it is the solution. Whenever I get around to it I'm gonna do the 3G alternator upgrade on my truck as it only has the stock 2G 75amp alternator right now.
These trucks have always had issues with the battery cables and your description sounds like a cable issue. Sometimes its just the terminal but sometimes the cables can become resistive from corrosion over the years. It happened on my 94 but not the 95. With a digital multimeter you can measure voltage drop while its under load.
regards
rikard
regards
rikard
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I got the starter out and it failed the bench test, so I'll install this new one this weekend and see if that gets things going again. Thanks for this cable info. though too. The negative connection looks a little frayed, so that's where I'll head next if the new starter doesn't do it.



