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Rpms dropping down then engine cutting off

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Old Nov 29, 2015 | 10:39 AM
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Default Rpms dropping down then engine cutting off

I have a 1994 5.0 F150 and a few days ago I started it up and after about 3 seconds the idle dropped down to about 500 then it cut off from low idle of course. When I put it in gear it tries to drop down but not too bad because I keep hitting the gas, but after it warms up it runs perfectly fine then I cut it off and start it back up and it idles fine in park and while in gear. A few weeks ago I had a problem where I had to turn the key on and off 2 times so the fuel pump sent fuel twice. Then it would start and run fine. That problem randomly went away but do y'all think this new problem is the same thing just worse?I was thinking fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator? Maybe it has something to do with intake? Plugs? I have no idea but thanks in advance.
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Old Nov 29, 2015 | 04:48 PM
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Get a gauge and check your fuel pressure before you spend any money on anything that anybody guesses it might be. Then you will know for sure.
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Old Nov 29, 2015 | 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Chris_1
Get a gauge and check your fuel pressure before you spend any money on anything that anybody guesses it might be. Then you will know for sure.
How and where do I test it at?
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Old Nov 29, 2015 | 08:34 PM
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Fuel pressure is checked at the Schrader valve on the manifold fuel rail. Would like to see 35 psi or better. Have used a tire guage I didn't care about to get the reading, be careful as fuel may spray.


One other thought is the IAC (idle air control) solenoid. The previous gen ('87-'91) tended to gunk these up causing idle speed control issues. May be worth a look to ensure the piston moves freely, and a possible cleaning - use regular carb cleaner. This looks like a roll of quarters with an electrical connection which straddles the main throttle butterfly.
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Old Nov 29, 2015 | 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by wde3477
Fuel pressure is checked at the Schrader valve on the manifold fuel rail. Would like to see 35 psi or better. Have used a tire guage I didn't care about to get the reading, be careful as fuel may spray.


One other thought is the IAC (idle air control) solenoid. The previous gen ('87-'91) tended to gunk these up causing idle speed control issues. May be worth a look to ensure the piston moves freely, and a possible cleaning - use regular carb cleaner. This looks like a roll of quarters with an electrical connection which straddles the main throttle butterfly.
I had some bad idle problems a while ago and replaced the IAC among other things. So the Schrader valve looks like a tire valve? Do I test it while running?
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Old Nov 29, 2015 | 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by jonsto426
So the Schrader valve looks like a tire valve? Do I test it while running?

Yes, and yes.


The thing that brought to mind the IAC was your comment about the idle dropping down when put into gear. Granted, the idle should drop some, but not so low as to need feathering with the pedal.


Don't mess with the set screw on the main butterfly. While it's tempting to use this, it's really only meant to keep the butterfly offset from sticking in the throat - not for controlling idle speed.
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Old Nov 29, 2015 | 10:11 PM
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Originally Posted by wde3477
Yes, and yes.


The thing that brought to mind the IAC was your comment about the idle dropping down when put into gear. Granted, the idle should drop some, but not so low as to need feathering with the pedal.


Don't mess with the set screw on the main butterfly. While it's tempting to use this, it's really only meant to keep the butterfly offset from sticking in the throat - not for controlling idle speed.
Ahh yeah I know what ya mean. Thanks for the input. Hopefully it will all be 1 problem like a fuel pressure regulator. I'll check it tommorow.
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