seagiant

Hi,
Run the codes!

You are just playing a guessing game now!

What do you think the first thing a Mechanic does when he gets a car with a ??? on it!

If I was a clarvoyant, I wouldn't be here, I'd be in Vegas!!!

Lazarus-F150

Fair enough! I just got an INNOVA code reader and hooked it up. Pulled the following at KOEO:

112 - low voltage to air change temperature sensor
117 - low voltage to engine coolant temperature sensor
122 - low voltage to throttle position sensor
126 - MAP voltage above spec
327 - Low EGR feedback signal - EVR or PFE

So, I can track these down, but when I tested the TPS two days ago it appeared to be running at normal voltage (4.94V). Do these codes indicate that the sensors themselves are bad, or that the wiring going to/from the sensors could be bad? Any thoughts?

Thanks!

seagiant

Hi,
Ok, NOW, you have some information and can research these problems!

Also people here and other forums can tell you what they did when they got the same codes!

I would Google these code numbers and see what other people found!

As an example, I recently had my engine 89 4.9L I6 just go crazy, thought I had blown it up?

Limped home and ran the codes....

Got a "14" code which is the PIP Sensor?

Yea, what the hell is that?

Turns out it is what others call a "Crankshaft Locating Sensor" tells the computer when to inject fuel and times the spark!

Well...That could get your engine acting crazy!

So...my next job is to rebuild the Distributor and replace the PIP and will go ahead and replace Ignition Module.

But the codes told me where to look!

Just googled "Ford code 327"

https://www.fordf150.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=50732

Christopher1990

when a handful of electrical problems are detected at once i'd look at the battery it just fixed a load of issues that happened all at once for me. Was a simple as my battery was only producing 12 volts. Or the alternator could be not keeping up with loads. The Computer goes all kinds of retarded if it doesn't get its juice! I'm not an expert but I have been finding its usually the easiest things and cheapest that fix most the issues in these years of Ford.

seagiant

Hi,
Yea, seems like a lot of voltage related problems!

I did the G3 conversion on my alternator.

Going from a 65 amp to 130 amp alternator!

Best upgrade I've ever done!

I do think that at a certain point in time a lot of these computer sensors are ready to be replaced though!

Saw this!

https://www.fordf150.net/howto/eecivcodes.php

JJJELLO

Thanks for the help in this thread. I have similar problem to original post but symptoms of second post in wrong thread. Tell me which thread to post this problem.

My 1995 Ford F-150XLT 2x2 purple flareside with 95k and a 302 V-8, 5.0 that started
(whether hot or cold at 5000’ in Prescott, AZ) up fine all year until about 8 weeks ago.Then when turned key it took 2 turns of key to get it fired up. (new key lock last June when bought it). REvved up to RPM and kicked out when supposed to to normal idle but when I put it in gear to back out of garage it choked itself and idle dropped to nothing and it died. Thought of a vapor lock so undid the gas caps and let it sit for a few minutes.

I am retired so was not late for work. Gas tanks full. Started it up on first turn and ran like the sweet ford that it is. Ran errands all over town and no problems until last 2 weeks.
Started it up in morning and did same thing except idle caught and I was able to zip all over town until I stopped for a green drink at Roebek’s. Parked truck, got my juice, started it up just fine, backed out of space and put it in Drive. Got about 100 feet to enter traffic and darn thing crapped out in the middle the driveway. Engine light came on, no power steering, no brakes, no power at all. Dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree and I was dead in the water.

AAA towed it to my mechanic (Sergio’s in Chino Valley, AZ) where they put in an ignition control module (under a fender somewhere). Test drive of stop, start, turn it off, start it drove back to shop and it passed with flying colors. Paid my bill and happy to drive home again on 2 miles of paved road and 1 mile of usual unimproved county road of washboard bumpy almost impassable dirt roads.
Got 500 yards from my house on gravel road and dashboard lit up again then truck backfired 4 times and died again. No power. No nothing. Thank heavens for cell phones and AAA towed me this time 15 miles to Jim’s Auto Clinic (on Gurley street). They kept it for a day and did a thorough diagnostic check but could not duplicate the symptoms. Drove it like I told them with cold start and warm up and go 65 mph on Hwy 89A then stop for lunch and so on. Nada nada zip zip. Changed out plug wires and checked timing. $167 later and I was off running errands again.

Hang on it gets better. No mechanic could duplicate the problem. My life partner says it’s because it is a Ford - but seriously thinks it is the thermostat. Last Monday I was turning left (with the green arrow) crossing a 2 lane busy highway 89 into the VA hospital campus and had just turned the wheels when it crapped out again smack dab in the middle of the busy intersection.
Two very nice men pushed me through the intersection to a turn out at the entrance to the VA. My first call was to my therapist saying I wouldn’t be able to attend art therapy today and where I was and was my partner Charles there yet. “No but he should be passing you on his way into group.” Thanks and he did.
Outside temp was 101 deg so we sat in in AC truck waiting for the tow truck. AAA said I had used all my 4 free tows so we put it on Charles’ card and towed it back to Sergio’s. Jim’s had told me they couldn’t fix it if they couldn’t duplicate the symptoms. Guess the adage of a “woman” driver is true.

Jason at Sergio’s kept it all week (thanks Enterprise car rental) replaced distributor, coil, checked everything that he could, and there were no codes in the computer so it was not the engine (right?). I researched 18 pages of F-150 forums taking notes and calling him with my findings (just what every man does NOT want - help from an educated female) Just kidding.
Jason was at an impass by Thursday and still could not duplicate the problem…until Friday morning.
A miracle happened when he went to start it to pull it into the shop once again…IT DIED ON HIM JUST LIKE IT HAD WITH ME. FINALLY ABLE TO DUPLICATE symptoms. Thank you God and all my patient Angel guides. That wonderful forehead thumping AHA moment.

Hopefully I get my truck back tomorrow (Monday) with new exhaust sensors things, a quasi-tuneup and a new thermostat (to humor my partner) and a bill to go on my credit card.
My question in this litany of entertaining story telling is...

DOES ANYONE OUT THERE HAVE ANY MORE SUGGESTIONS ON WHAT TO CHECK OR REPLACE?

And would spending the money for MagnaFlow exhaust system and dual (have single now) exhaust for my 66th birthday next week make any difference or just make my hot-rod Grand-momma alter-ego happy?

Lazarus-F150

I've been doing a little research and found a series of posts on Full Size Bronco on how to test the sensors that commonly go bad that have been really helpful (links below).

EVP:
http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...placement.html

TPS:
http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...djustment.html

ECT/IAT and coolant temp sensor:
http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...ct-sensor.html

All ended up not reading within range, so I replaced them all with new Motorcraft sensors, disconnected the battery for an hour or so, reconnected everything, and fired 'er up. The outcome? Much improved idle and got the "111" from the code reader at KOEO!

Two down sides:
1.) the ECT sensor was covered in nastiness (pic below), which also appears to be coating the intake manifold.

2.) found at least one vacuum leak.

From reading a little it seems that the accumulation of nasty business in the intake manifold from the PCV (and EGR, I think) is not too surprising (I would be willing to bet that the ECT sensor is original and that the manifold has never been cleaned). I guess that I will be removing and cleaning the throttle body and manifold in one of the coming weekends... Although, with the huge difference from just replacing these sensors, I'm looking forward to continued improvements by fixing these two things (and flushing my cooling system and going back to the stock 195 deg thermostat instead of the 180 that the PO put in there...).

seagiant

Hi,
Thanks for the info and links!!!

I will probably check mine out also!

I have already replaced the EGR Valve (Gave me a "Check Engine Light" and the codes told me what it was!)