replacing head gasket
My brother recently bought a '96 f-150, 4.9 inline-6. He said it was dumping coolant, I took a look and he wasn't kidding. It practically dumps out of the exhaust.
I started taking it apart to check the head gasket. But there's a metal tube (egr I think) that is routed right between the ports in the manifold, making it seem impossible to remove so I can get to the valve cover. I was hoping someone had a tip for helping me get the blasted thing off and out of my way. I can lift it up out of the way enough to get some of the valve cover bolts out but not all. Plus it's just generally in my way.
I started taking it apart to check the head gasket. But there's a metal tube (egr I think) that is routed right between the ports in the manifold, making it seem impossible to remove so I can get to the valve cover. I was hoping someone had a tip for helping me get the blasted thing off and out of my way. I can lift it up out of the way enough to get some of the valve cover bolts out but not all. Plus it's just generally in my way.
I was able to get my upper intake manifold off by un-bolting the EGR valve from it and letting the EGR valve/tube dangle from the supported exhaust manifold, still passing through the lower intake manifold.
I managed to get the head gasket changed (used a Fel Pro 525SD Severe Duty* head gasket) and when I went to reinstall everything, I noticed that the EGR tube had about a 3" long crack in it on the backside, facing the firewall. Not sure if it was there before or not. At that point, I hack-sawed it in two and was able to extract it from the EGR valve and from the rear exhaust manifold (with plenty of PB B'laster, a cheater pipe and vise!) I'm not sure that I would've gotten it apart w/o the vise. Now shopping for another tube + heat sleeve. Cheapest that I've found so far is $75. Ford wants $105.00 and I've found a possible match on Ebay that is an EGR tube, heat sleeve AND EGR valve for $105.00.
My next conundrum is with the exhaust/intake bolts: One is nearly 3x longer and double-ended, (like a stud) and with a larger hex nut incorporated, that obviously mounts something else; but for the life of me, I can't recall which position it goes in and what hangs from it. I looked at my neighbor's F150, but couldn't tell from the topside and didn't go up underneath because it was parked in gooey mud.
*Here's the 411 on the Severe Duty head gasket, FWIW:
Ruggedly engineered, these head gaskets feature an impressive collection of exclusive enhancements that ensure superior performance and longevity under the toughest condition and keep severe duty vehicles' engines sealed reliably.
PermaTorque SD gaskets get their strength and longevity from six key product features:
I managed to get the head gasket changed (used a Fel Pro 525SD Severe Duty* head gasket) and when I went to reinstall everything, I noticed that the EGR tube had about a 3" long crack in it on the backside, facing the firewall. Not sure if it was there before or not. At that point, I hack-sawed it in two and was able to extract it from the EGR valve and from the rear exhaust manifold (with plenty of PB B'laster, a cheater pipe and vise!) I'm not sure that I would've gotten it apart w/o the vise. Now shopping for another tube + heat sleeve. Cheapest that I've found so far is $75. Ford wants $105.00 and I've found a possible match on Ebay that is an EGR tube, heat sleeve AND EGR valve for $105.00.
My next conundrum is with the exhaust/intake bolts: One is nearly 3x longer and double-ended, (like a stud) and with a larger hex nut incorporated, that obviously mounts something else; but for the life of me, I can't recall which position it goes in and what hangs from it. I looked at my neighbor's F150, but couldn't tell from the topside and didn't go up underneath because it was parked in gooey mud.
*Here's the 411 on the Severe Duty head gasket, FWIW:
Ruggedly engineered, these head gaskets feature an impressive collection of exclusive enhancements that ensure superior performance and longevity under the toughest condition and keep severe duty vehicles' engines sealed reliably.
PermaTorque SD gaskets get their strength and longevity from six key product features:
- Armor Thickness – Thicker armor creates a more detonation-resistant combustion seal, increases radial strength, and maximizes loading (and sealing performance) around the combustion openings.
- Armor Material – Use of high-grade Austenitic (non-magnetic) stainless steel increases radial strength, corrosion resistance and detonation resistance.
- Body Core Thickness – Solid-steel-core gaskets have higher radial strength than perforated core gaskets. "Severe Duty" core material is 25% thicker than normal, further increasing radial strength.
- Printoseal® Sealing Beads – These enhance fluid sealing in strategic areas without removing excessive load from the combustion seal. They also allow the use of thicker armor.
- Specialized Coatings – These provide increased fluid sealing and anti-stick properties.
- Hot Press Flattening – Helps embed the armor into the gasket facing material, reducing torque loss. Use of heat imbeds the armor more deeply and consistently, and allows use of thicker armor.
Last edited by MidSouthMitch; Mar 31, 2018 at 05:45 PM.
I got my upper manifold off, it has to be turned in ways that are counter-intuitive, but it will wiggle off the end of the tube. I had the EGR valve completely removed. While it was off, I used a die grinder and cleaned up the V that it passes through, and it went on easier. hopefully if it comes up again, some of the drama will be avoided.
My next conundrum is with the exhaust/intake bolts: One is nearly 3x longer and double-ended, (like a stud) and with a larger hex nut incorporated, that obviously mounts something else; but for the life of me, I can't recall which position it goes in and what hangs from it. I looked at my neighbor's F150, but couldn't tell from the topside and didn't go up underneath because it was parked in gooey mud..

