replace fuel injectors?
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 179
Likes: 1
From: Grand forks, British Columbia
Was thinking of replacing all my fuel injectors with gb remanufactered ones. is this wise or should i replace with new ones or just clean them. truck has 201klm on it. getting **** mpg. 351 btw.
it starts fine. no smell of gas. slight miss a idle it seems but maybe thats me. idles around 6-700 rpm. just trying to fix my horrible gas millage.
it starts fine. no smell of gas. slight miss a idle it seems but maybe thats me. idles around 6-700 rpm. just trying to fix my horrible gas millage.
Last edited by kijjy150; Nov 21, 2010 at 06:01 PM.
Some of the more experienced guys can chime in on this, but it seems like you shouldn't be going to the injectors first. Try plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor (these four especially if you feel like it's missing a little) maybe the ignition coil, seafoam... anyone else?
x2 - Your fuel injectors are likely either working well or completely clogged. If even one was completely clogged, you'd have bigger issues. I don't think that replacing them just to say you did would be money well spent.
I'd agree that a standard tune-up would be #1 - cap and rotor are cheap and easy, get a tube of dielectric grease and goop up everything inside there. Stock copper plugs, and spend your money on the best wires you can convince yourself to buy. Don't forget to disconnect your battery negative while doing this.
#2 - get a $10 can of seafoam. With the motor warm and running, pull the vacuum hose off your brake booster, and slowly pour 1/2 of the bottle in (as quick as you can, but don't kill it). A small funnel that fits the vac line will help too. Reconnect the line and shut the motor off - wait 5-10 minutes. Fire it up and rev it until you quit getting black smoke out the tailpipe. Your neighbors will love you for this... Don't shut the motor off until you can rev it without making a cloud.
#3 - Pour the other 1/2 can of seafoam in your gas tank.
#4 - Check the ignition coil - should just look at this while doing your tune-up. With the main wire off (the one that connects the coil to the center of the distributor), look at the connector on your coil. If it looks like it's been shot with a shotgun, the inside probably does too - replace it.
#5 - don't do anything else until the tank with seafoam is empty and you need to refill with fuel. At that point, fill the tank and reset your odometer so that you can get a new mileage calc at your next refill.
#6 - You just refilled after the seafoam tank - the only codes should be set since you did the tune-up. Check for codes and see what you get:
https://www.f150forum.com/f10/how-re...es-obdi-10907/
Let us know what (if any) codes you get, and let us know how it's running. We'll help you proceed from there is it's still not right.
I'd agree that a standard tune-up would be #1 - cap and rotor are cheap and easy, get a tube of dielectric grease and goop up everything inside there. Stock copper plugs, and spend your money on the best wires you can convince yourself to buy. Don't forget to disconnect your battery negative while doing this.
#2 - get a $10 can of seafoam. With the motor warm and running, pull the vacuum hose off your brake booster, and slowly pour 1/2 of the bottle in (as quick as you can, but don't kill it). A small funnel that fits the vac line will help too. Reconnect the line and shut the motor off - wait 5-10 minutes. Fire it up and rev it until you quit getting black smoke out the tailpipe. Your neighbors will love you for this... Don't shut the motor off until you can rev it without making a cloud.
#3 - Pour the other 1/2 can of seafoam in your gas tank.
#4 - Check the ignition coil - should just look at this while doing your tune-up. With the main wire off (the one that connects the coil to the center of the distributor), look at the connector on your coil. If it looks like it's been shot with a shotgun, the inside probably does too - replace it.
#5 - don't do anything else until the tank with seafoam is empty and you need to refill with fuel. At that point, fill the tank and reset your odometer so that you can get a new mileage calc at your next refill.
#6 - You just refilled after the seafoam tank - the only codes should be set since you did the tune-up. Check for codes and see what you get:
https://www.f150forum.com/f10/how-re...es-obdi-10907/
Let us know what (if any) codes you get, and let us know how it's running. We'll help you proceed from there is it's still not right.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 179
Likes: 1
From: Grand forks, British Columbia
well i have replaced o2 sensor, plugs, dist cap rotor. wires looked ok but maybe i should change them anyways. coil is the same. i sea foamed already
gonna sea foam again once the rear tank is fixed(which really makes it seem bad cause some gas is going backl there but milegae was **** before that).
Ill get another scan done and ill replace the coil and wires as well.
been thinking of going with a efan as well...if i can get up to 14mpg id be happy
gonna sea foam again once the rear tank is fixed(which really makes it seem bad cause some gas is going backl there but milegae was **** before that).
Ill get another scan done and ill replace the coil and wires as well.
been thinking of going with a efan as well...if i can get up to 14mpg id be happy
The coil and wires will help.
You mention the rear tank - is the fuel pump bad? If so, you're losing a lot of mpg through the return line overfilling the rear tank.
If you really want both tanks but want to wait to rebuild one, simply pull the rubber lines and cap them. That'll keep the fuel from returning into a non-functional tank.
You mention the rear tank - is the fuel pump bad? If so, you're losing a lot of mpg through the return line overfilling the rear tank.
If you really want both tanks but want to wait to rebuild one, simply pull the rubber lines and cap them. That'll keep the fuel from returning into a non-functional tank.

