Repeat code trouble.
03-06-2015, 11:02 AM
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Repeat code trouble.
I bought my granddads 95 F150 5.0 XLT. It use to have these codes when I first got it code 122, 211, 212, 327, 332. I replaced the EGR vavle and sensor, the throttle body position sensor, and distributor cap and rotor (because they appeared very worn out). He claims to have replaced the ICM 3 or more times. Dunno if thats true or not and that the distributor doesn't even have 500 miles on it but sure looks almost original. The problems this truck keeps having is you can be driving it and the RPMs just bottom out sometimes will come right back, most of time the truck will stall out and die and take hours before it will finally decide to crank back up. Some days it will drive just fine. The codes I am now getting are 121, 211, 212, 332. I am needing serious help before i pull my hair out lol. I've been doing so much reading on this forum and others my eyes hurt. I keep reading about grounding could be a main issue. Can someone show me a picture or tell me where the grounding points are and what else I need to do to fix my problems.
03-07-2015, 09:50 AM
#2
1994 F150 XLT 5.8L 2wd
Just look around the engine bay, you should be able to see the important ones. Engine block > back of engine bay; Battery > Pass front corner; Both solenoids (back engine bay drvr side, front next to battery) act as there own ground. Clean them up as well as the terminals on battery/solendoids, also consider replacing battery terminal connectors.
Could be PIP sensor in distributor, even if he replaced the dist he could have gotten a used one to stick in (had that happen to me once with high $$ cadillac shocks).
Other common die/no starts are ECT (engine coolant temp) sensor and the ignition coil (not the ICM but the actual coil).
Also double check that everything is installed and routed correctly (cap, wires, timing). Pull engine vac while running, should be 17-22hg, also test each of your small diameter vac lines coming off of the intake manifold, they should all hold vacuum. Test fuel pressure for initial, running, and maintain pressure for a few minutes after shutting the truck off. Test voltage on TPS, .9-.97v closed throttle, 5v WOT with a smooth increase as you open the throttle. Clean IAC and TB blades just for shts n ggls, try unplugging the IAC, if you have no issues/dying then IAC is bad. Also hit every connector you can find with quick drying electronic clean and a brush, for female end just spray male and insert 3-5 times to clean interior contacts.
Some of these may seem like they have nothing to do with it but it's better when you are stumped to eliminate possible sources of the problem.
Next time the truck dies pull codes immediately, like right then. Also make sure you reset the codes, don't unhook battery just start the test then remove the jumper wire when the light starts blinking in code, this will reset codes without erasing driver data the ECU uses.
If your stalling occurs on bumpy roads consider poor connection, ground, or damaged wiring.
Could be PIP sensor in distributor, even if he replaced the dist he could have gotten a used one to stick in (had that happen to me once with high $$ cadillac shocks).
Other common die/no starts are ECT (engine coolant temp) sensor and the ignition coil (not the ICM but the actual coil).
Also double check that everything is installed and routed correctly (cap, wires, timing). Pull engine vac while running, should be 17-22hg, also test each of your small diameter vac lines coming off of the intake manifold, they should all hold vacuum. Test fuel pressure for initial, running, and maintain pressure for a few minutes after shutting the truck off. Test voltage on TPS, .9-.97v closed throttle, 5v WOT with a smooth increase as you open the throttle. Clean IAC and TB blades just for shts n ggls, try unplugging the IAC, if you have no issues/dying then IAC is bad. Also hit every connector you can find with quick drying electronic clean and a brush, for female end just spray male and insert 3-5 times to clean interior contacts.
Some of these may seem like they have nothing to do with it but it's better when you are stumped to eliminate possible sources of the problem.
Next time the truck dies pull codes immediately, like right then. Also make sure you reset the codes, don't unhook battery just start the test then remove the jumper wire when the light starts blinking in code, this will reset codes without erasing driver data the ECU uses.
If your stalling occurs on bumpy roads consider poor connection, ground, or damaged wiring.
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ReT_SqUiD (03-07-2015)
03-15-2015, 12:56 PM
#3
Member
Thread Starter
Well got the distributor coil replaced, so far it hasn't died on me again (knock on wood). The CEL stays on still though with the codes. If it ever quits raining I'm going to spray some electrical cleaner and clean some connectors, maybe everything will work correctly then.