Anyone able to guide me in removing the TPS for a '95 302 v8? Thanks!

 

Yep, no fun. On mine, the screws were the same type used on MAF sensors. I don't know their politically correct name but I refer to them as tamper proof stars. They have a nipple projecting out in the center of the star configuration, so a standard set of star bits won't work. Now add to that an anti-vibration thread sealant because the screw threads upside down vertically.Fun, fun, fun! I found a set of these type bits and a small ratcheting bit wrench that holds the bit at a 90 degree angle exactly like a socket wrench. Their are two variations of the TPS. One has small mounting holes that sets the sensor at a fixed generic setting range. The other has elongated mounting slots to allow tweeking the position. I replaced my generic type w/ an adjustable type and experienced out of range TPS error codes and when shifting into park (especially w/ A/C on, the idle would drop out and have a hard time, fighting to not stall. So I would recommend replacing like for like. This is a very hardy sensor. My reason for replacement was only for reason of experimentation. This is truly a part that "if it ain't broke, don't fix it. This sensor is very good at telling on itself upon error code scans and easy to manually check sensor output, so use that to your advantage. It's not much more fun to reinstall either. May I suggest exploring a dirty IAC as a better % shot to restoring an idle misbehavior.

 

those are "security" screws...like you said...Tamper proof..

Advance auto had a kit of bits with them in it...

 

This wasn't fun at all and I see what you guys mean about them screws...no joke to remove, had to use vice grips. Unfortunately, I still have an issue with the idle so I think I am going to move onto changing the idle air control valve. The thing is that when I'm accelerating, the truck wants to continue to do so even after I take my foot off the gas...any other ideas after this idle air control valve swap? Thanks!
'95 302 V8

 

Yes, clean it first! Then put it back on. At normal operating temp., while at an idle. disconnect it. If there isn't a substantial drop in idle (usually stall), the valve (more likely it's solenoid component) is bad. Other thoughts: Binding of throttle linkage? Have you done an Error code scan?