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Removing Distributor

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Old 09-30-2009, 12:44 AM
  #11  
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the additive will swell the pump seal and it will melt it...check fuel pressure this will be the key...
Old 09-30-2009, 07:41 AM
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Find a way to check your fuel pressure like he said...good first place to start. If your not smelling gas then its a good chance that what it is. How many miles are on the truck? My gramps has an 03 chev pickup, he just bought it, had it sittin in the shop, he fired it up, put it in 4x4 (just for the hell of it to make sure it worked) and the motor died. Ended up being the fuel pump....65000 miles. Pumps can go at anytime.
Old 09-30-2009, 09:41 AM
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true and sometimes the problem can be the additives....there is a reason Dealers dont clean injectors by dumping stuff in the tank...they do it at the Schroeder valve....

chemicals like Gumout Fuel Injection cleaner work very well...they also eat the rubber piece in between the pump and line...this just makes the pump move fuel from the tank right back into itself....I have seen this hundreds of times...
Old 09-30-2009, 02:20 PM
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I'll be damned I had no idea that stuff would do that. Luckily I dont use that crap, we have fuel additive we put in when we buy a couple thousand gallon. What bout octane boosters?
Old 09-30-2009, 02:36 PM
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some boosters will do it too...acetone makes a good octane booster in itself and that does weird things....

I use Lucas fuel additive...it will slightly boost the octane and will lube the system rather than kill it plus it cleans as well...I add a little every other tankfull and I do usually get better mileage off of it...
Old 10-04-2009, 04:54 PM
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My father recently checked a relay by the pack of wires by the driver side fender pictured above and he picked up a reading with his meter, indicating that it's good. I told him about checking the fuel pressure and that's what he'll do next.

He has a gauge that he says he can check with, but what's the pressure reading you should get if there's no obstruction in the fuel lines? He discovered from Autozone that the truck's got two fuel pumps, one high and one low pressure. Would anyone happen to know where the fuel pump relay is located and where the inertia switch is on the 4.9L truck? Do both pumps run on one relay, or two relays?

Last edited by Plagueis; 10-04-2009 at 04:57 PM.
Old 10-04-2009, 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Plagueis


My father recently checked a relay by the pack of wires by the driver side fender pictured above and he picked up a reading with his meter, indicating that it's good. I told him about checking the fuel pressure and that's what he'll do next.

He has a gauge that he says he can check with, but what's the pressure reading you should get if there's no obstruction in the fuel lines? He discovered from Autozone that the truck's got two fuel pumps, one high and one low pressure. Would anyone happen to know where the fuel pump relay is located and where the inertia switch is on the 4.9L truck? Do both pumps run on one relay, or two relays?
the Inertia switch is in the drivers side kick panel near the computer. the fuel pump relay runs both fuel pumps, one pump is in the tank and it sends fuel to the main pump on the inside frame rail on the drivers side under the drivers floor. the fuel pump relay and the computer relay are very common to go bad on these trucks because it gets destroyed by corrosion and such. i would check for power on the relay. are you sure you tested the right relay? there should be 2 right next to each other.

and the fuel pressure you should get would be around 50 PSI Key On Engine Off...and about 45PSI Key On Engine Running
Old 10-04-2009, 05:39 PM
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Travis, thank you very much for the clarification. I'll forward the information to him right away.

The relay he tested was what he thought was for the fuel pump, but now he's not sure. In any case, this relay did have a lot of corrosion on the inside, and he cleaned it and sprayed a lot of that electric cleaner stuff and put it back together. The next things on the list is checking the fuel pressure and fuel pump relay. Is the relay ever placed at different locations from truck to truck of the same model, or is it always located at a designated spot, like in the wire batch area pictured above?

Oh, to answer Farmer12, the mileage of this truck is unknown. The mileage gauge has only got 5 digits and it's currently at 20-something thousand. I would have to assume that it's got around 120k+ at the very least because the mileage reset to 0 after 99999 during his ownership.

Last edited by Plagueis; 10-04-2009 at 05:48 PM.
Old 10-04-2009, 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Plagueis
Travis, thank you very much for the clarification. I'll forward the information to him right away.

The relay he tested was what he thought was for the fuel pump, but now he's not sure. In any case, this relay did have a lot of corrosion on the inside, and he cleaned it and sprayed a lot of that electric cleaner stuff and put it back together. The next things on the list is checking the fuel pressure and fuel pump relay. Is the relay ever placed at different locations from truck to truck of the same model, or is it always located at a designated spot, like in the wire batch area pictured above?

Oh, to answer Farmer12, the mileage of this truck is unknown. The mileage gauge has only got 5 digits and it's currently at 20-something thousand. I would have to assume that it's got around 120k+ at the very least because the mileage reset to 0 after 99999 during his ownership.
hey man no problem, thats why im here, to get help and to help out. as far as the relay locations, the 2 relays should be relatively near each other, almost next to each other, ill take a picture tomorrow of where they are in my truck and post it on here
Old 10-05-2009, 03:22 PM
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I don't know if you have ever replaced timing gear or not, but with distributor in and cap off crank engine to make sure distributor is turning. If not the timing gear has failed. The factory gear is made of a fiber material and deteriorates and breaks. The replacement is steel and will last a lifetime.


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