Removal of the ECU
I have an interesting issue on my 1995 4.9l ford with 256k miles on it where i need the ECU removed so i can check for any potential blown capacitors or other issues
I had the computer out but not disconnected i heard a rattle thus my suspicion
The screw will not tighten it just...spins as well so it's a bit of an issue getting it removed any advice would be highly appreciated.
I had the computer out but not disconnected i heard a rattle thus my suspicion
The screw will not tighten it just...spins as well so it's a bit of an issue getting it removed any advice would be highly appreciated.
Last edited by Chewygumball; May 9, 2018 at 11:30 PM.
What screw are you talking about? The bolt in the middle of the connector? You shouldn't have tightened it - you should have loosened it. If you've stripped the splines off the threaded insert in the EEC connector, you may never get the bolt out (without destroying the connector).

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Ah yes, i got it apart without destroying anything i found the rattle it was a little circular plastic piece in there......dunno why everything looked good as new
Well i'm still dealing with my idle issue but i think i've nailed it down to the solenoids on the drive side engine
can you give me an update on those three since you have made it very clear you are a fan of the 4.9 i6 :p
Well i'm still dealing with my idle issue but i think i've nailed it down to the solenoids on the drive side engine
can you give me an update on those three since you have made it very clear you are a fan of the 4.9 i6 :p
Last edited by Chewygumball; May 10, 2018 at 01:28 PM.
The TAB, & TAD solenoids have no effect on idle. If the EVP was malfunctioning, the engine wouldn't idle at all. What "update" are you talking about? This is the first time you've mentioned an "idle issue" - if you want help with it, first put ALL the truck's details into your signature, and then fully-describe the symptom & its history.

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If you have the ECU out, you might as well check the cap condition to see if they've leaked. I had 2 failures because of the cap's electrolytic leaked and ate away PCB traces. First time, I replaced 2 of 3 caps and the 3rd cap failed shortly after. The 2nd ECU, I made sure I replaced all of them. I used mil grade, which if I remember correctly, is equal to or close to auto grade performance. I live on FL's Space Coast, so there is an abundance of mil grade components.



