Rebuilding an engine
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 4
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From: Morgantown WV
Rebuilding an engine
So my 351W has about 189250 miles on her now. I'm planning on buying a replacement 351W to rebuild but i don't want to have it stock. I'm want to get new heads, cam, intake etc.
What do you think is a good combination? what heads, can and intake work well together?
Thanks
What do you think is a good combination? what heads, can and intake work well together?
Thanks
Super Duty
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 121
Likes: 0
From: Loudoun County, VA
I'm sure more knowledgeable folk than I will begin with questions such as: MAF or speed density? You may wish to provide a little more info on the truck in question to get a jump on receiving answers.
5 Year Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,646
Likes: 258
From: Charlotte, NC
My thoughts (and a lot of assumptions)............
I assume you have a 93 F150, which leads me to believe you have a speed density truck. I also assume that you want a stout engine that can be very reliably driven daily.
I'm currently rebuilding my engine (a 5.0, but is somewhat relative to a 5.8) and I've done a pretty good amount of research and here's what I came up with. I'm going to cover what you asked for and mention a few smaller things as well.
Intake: Keep the stock upper intake and have your lower intake ported. The truck intake is pretty much regarded as the best SBF flowing intake Ford ever made. Yes, it even flows more than the Mustang intakes. Edelbrock does have an aftermarket truck intake, but if you have a budget in mind, you can save money by getting your factory lower ported.
Heads: Every engine is different and you will have to measure piston to valve clearance. BUT....as a rule of thumb, if you are using a head with a 1.94 or less intake valve, as long as your camshaft isn't too radical, you shouldn't have to flycut the piston. As far as brands, it's about like a candy store. AFR, Trick Flow, Edelbrock, RHS, Brodix, Windsor Jr, GT40X pick your choice basically. With Trick Flow, the Twisted Wedge 170 has a 2.02 intake valve, but it is offset to clear the piston provided the camshaft isn't too radical. As far as recommendation...........well, for peace of mind, go with one of the majors and make sure the valve springs on the heads accommodate the camshaft you select and also make sure the valve stem seals are not rubber. Sometimes after purchasing a head, you'll have to upgrade springs and valve stem seals. Some prefer to purchase their heads bare and assemble them with the springs, valves, seals, etc. of their own choosing. GT40/GT40P heads are not bad, but they will need to be ported to get big time horsepower out of them. Personally, I think you'd be cheating yourself putting them on that 5.8 unported.
Camshaft: Since you have a Speed Density truck, you'll want to go with a milder cam with a 114 Lobe Seperation Angle (LSA). This way, you won't have any sort of driveability issues. If you don't have a factory roller cam, now is the time to upgrade. I know that the 5.0s came with rollers beginning in 92, but I don't know about the 5.8s. As for what manufacturers, there are many out there to choose from. My camshaft is made by Comp Cams (35-349-8). I am a fan of a smooth idle and that was the deciding factor for me.
Pushrods: Hardened pushrods
Pistons: I assume you are going N/A, so you can go with hypereutectic pistons and not worry. There are companies that make performance hypereutectic pistons such as Keith Black and Speed Pro (Sealed Power). One very nice thing with Keith Black pistons (for the 5.0 at least) is they make pistons with reliefs for the heads with the 2.02 valves so that you won't have to flycut the pistons.
Connecting Rods: Stick with the factory ones, but replace the bolts with ARP bolts.
Oil Pump: Stick with the standard volume pump.
Oil Pump Shaft: Be sure to purchase a heavy duty shaft.
Machine Shop: Make sure you get the rotating assembly balanced if at all possible.
As far as Speed Density, there are some limitations there, but depending on your combination, an upgrade to mass air may or may not be needed. For me, I am not building a race truck, so I won't be upgrading anything in that department.
Just my .02......
I assume you have a 93 F150, which leads me to believe you have a speed density truck. I also assume that you want a stout engine that can be very reliably driven daily.
I'm currently rebuilding my engine (a 5.0, but is somewhat relative to a 5.8) and I've done a pretty good amount of research and here's what I came up with. I'm going to cover what you asked for and mention a few smaller things as well.
Intake: Keep the stock upper intake and have your lower intake ported. The truck intake is pretty much regarded as the best SBF flowing intake Ford ever made. Yes, it even flows more than the Mustang intakes. Edelbrock does have an aftermarket truck intake, but if you have a budget in mind, you can save money by getting your factory lower ported.
Heads: Every engine is different and you will have to measure piston to valve clearance. BUT....as a rule of thumb, if you are using a head with a 1.94 or less intake valve, as long as your camshaft isn't too radical, you shouldn't have to flycut the piston. As far as brands, it's about like a candy store. AFR, Trick Flow, Edelbrock, RHS, Brodix, Windsor Jr, GT40X pick your choice basically. With Trick Flow, the Twisted Wedge 170 has a 2.02 intake valve, but it is offset to clear the piston provided the camshaft isn't too radical. As far as recommendation...........well, for peace of mind, go with one of the majors and make sure the valve springs on the heads accommodate the camshaft you select and also make sure the valve stem seals are not rubber. Sometimes after purchasing a head, you'll have to upgrade springs and valve stem seals. Some prefer to purchase their heads bare and assemble them with the springs, valves, seals, etc. of their own choosing. GT40/GT40P heads are not bad, but they will need to be ported to get big time horsepower out of them. Personally, I think you'd be cheating yourself putting them on that 5.8 unported.
Camshaft: Since you have a Speed Density truck, you'll want to go with a milder cam with a 114 Lobe Seperation Angle (LSA). This way, you won't have any sort of driveability issues. If you don't have a factory roller cam, now is the time to upgrade. I know that the 5.0s came with rollers beginning in 92, but I don't know about the 5.8s. As for what manufacturers, there are many out there to choose from. My camshaft is made by Comp Cams (35-349-8). I am a fan of a smooth idle and that was the deciding factor for me.
Pushrods: Hardened pushrods
Pistons: I assume you are going N/A, so you can go with hypereutectic pistons and not worry. There are companies that make performance hypereutectic pistons such as Keith Black and Speed Pro (Sealed Power). One very nice thing with Keith Black pistons (for the 5.0 at least) is they make pistons with reliefs for the heads with the 2.02 valves so that you won't have to flycut the pistons.
Connecting Rods: Stick with the factory ones, but replace the bolts with ARP bolts.
Oil Pump: Stick with the standard volume pump.
Oil Pump Shaft: Be sure to purchase a heavy duty shaft.
Machine Shop: Make sure you get the rotating assembly balanced if at all possible.
As far as Speed Density, there are some limitations there, but depending on your combination, an upgrade to mass air may or may not be needed. For me, I am not building a race truck, so I won't be upgrading anything in that department.
Just my .02......
Last edited by qdeezie; Mar 28, 2012 at 07:18 PM.
5 Year Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,646
Likes: 258
From: Charlotte, NC
Originally Posted by 93WVLariat
thank you, big help. My budget for the project is between $3k-$4k. I have seen some top end kits by Edlebrock that seem to be a good step in the right direction
