Rear Leaf spring hanger
1992 F150 2wd. I was under the truck tonight doing some greasing and I noticed a broken leaf spring hanger (I believe this part is the hanger) see pic.
The part is riveted on. I ran into these same rivets upfront when I replaced one of the radius arm brackets. Up there wasn't bad, with a grinder I cut and 'X' into the rivet and next used an air. Chisel to punch out the rivet. Worked mint.
But being the leaf spring hanger is right by the fuel tank I hesitant to get in there with a grinder and sparks.
My question is how else do I get these rivets off? Only thing I can think of is to drill them out. If drilling is the best option anyone remember what size bits they used?
Once the old parts off I'll use grade 8 bolts just like I did with the radius arm bracket a couple years back.
Any insight welcomed. Thanks guys!
The part is riveted on. I ran into these same rivets upfront when I replaced one of the radius arm brackets. Up there wasn't bad, with a grinder I cut and 'X' into the rivet and next used an air. Chisel to punch out the rivet. Worked mint.
But being the leaf spring hanger is right by the fuel tank I hesitant to get in there with a grinder and sparks.
My question is how else do I get these rivets off? Only thing I can think of is to drill them out. If drilling is the best option anyone remember what size bits they used?
Once the old parts off I'll use grade 8 bolts just like I did with the radius arm bracket a couple years back.
Any insight welcomed. Thanks guys!
I've used both 4-1/2" angle grinder to take those rivets off, and also an OxAcetylene torch to cut the heads off. The torch went faster, but the angle grinder worked well also. Your idea with the X and air chisel also sounds good.
As long as you don't have a large fuel leak, I'd just go for it....its a straightforward but dirty job...
As long as you don't have a large fuel leak, I'd just go for it....its a straightforward but dirty job...
Thanks guys. I got the job done and it was not a fun one.
I ended up drilling the rivets to be on the safe side, took roughly 30 mins per rivet. Not to bad I thought.
I had to replace the shackle as well as I could not get out the original shackle to hanger bolt.
I mounted the new shackle loosely to the leaf and the real tricky part was getting the new shackle to line up with the hanger's bolt hole. I was alone and finally found success using a large ratchet strap to help.
All and all yes, a fairly straight forward job as it was plain as day what needed to happen but the frustrating part was not being able to make it happen. Ex the bolt that wouldn't come free or how long it took before I got the ratchet strap idea.
Sounds crazy but I've probably got 15 hrs into this spread over 3 days working on it in the evenings after my day job. I've got a good idea what tricks to use for the other side now and that one should hopefully go smoother as result.
Thanks
I ended up drilling the rivets to be on the safe side, took roughly 30 mins per rivet. Not to bad I thought.
I had to replace the shackle as well as I could not get out the original shackle to hanger bolt.
I mounted the new shackle loosely to the leaf and the real tricky part was getting the new shackle to line up with the hanger's bolt hole. I was alone and finally found success using a large ratchet strap to help.
All and all yes, a fairly straight forward job as it was plain as day what needed to happen but the frustrating part was not being able to make it happen. Ex the bolt that wouldn't come free or how long it took before I got the ratchet strap idea.
Sounds crazy but I've probably got 15 hrs into this spread over 3 days working on it in the evenings after my day job. I've got a good idea what tricks to use for the other side now and that one should hopefully go smoother as result.
Thanks
Truck will ride much better when you're done.
If you've ever watched what happens when you bounce a truck with 'free' bushing bolts compared to seized up bushing bolts - the seized ones, the shackle can't move and let the spring lengthen, so you just get a harsh bounce.
When the bolts are free to move in the bushing it makes for a much smoother ride.
If you've ever watched what happens when you bounce a truck with 'free' bushing bolts compared to seized up bushing bolts - the seized ones, the shackle can't move and let the spring lengthen, so you just get a harsh bounce.
When the bolts are free to move in the bushing it makes for a much smoother ride.






