Power Windows Suck
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Power Windows Suck
Okay so my '91 XLT Larrie V8 driver side window wont work, new motor still no go. Other side works fine. What is wrong anyone know?
Last edited by whiteguy199; Dec 3, 2011 at 10:41 AM.
Just Creepin
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 660
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From: Houghton, Mi
I just went through this tonight. Thought motor was dead but as I pulled off the panel, window moved (happen to bump my knee on switch). It moved a bit more but then stopped all together. Signs of loose connection, but I could not get it to come back on nor see any moving of wires at the switched got it back on.
Long story short, found out power was not getting to the switch anymore. When you look at back of your switch/door lock block, the 2 wires that are blue with black line is the power on each switch. Should have a multimeter or test light (both at walmart) to check if you have power at these points with key on. If you have neither, don't want to go get one/just want to finish, do like I did. Hold peace of conductive wire to the ground right there for those switches, and quickly touch the blue wires connection point at the switch. Any spark it has power and at this point gotta move on to another step and would best to go get a test light atleast. If there is no sparking, you lost power to that switch.
I just HAPPEN to have a Diode in the drawer from a previous project. I used that to jump power from the good switch/power to the dead switch/power. Diode only lets electricity flow one direction so figure this was safer than just poking a wire in. Prevents back feeding that wire. But truthfully, I don't think it would hurt to just jump power between the switches. Odds are they lead to the same spot anyways...
This was on a 1991 XLT Lariat -6. Was also my driver window that was dead. So should be exact same, as far as window switch.
Long story short, found out power was not getting to the switch anymore. When you look at back of your switch/door lock block, the 2 wires that are blue with black line is the power on each switch. Should have a multimeter or test light (both at walmart) to check if you have power at these points with key on. If you have neither, don't want to go get one/just want to finish, do like I did. Hold peace of conductive wire to the ground right there for those switches, and quickly touch the blue wires connection point at the switch. Any spark it has power and at this point gotta move on to another step and would best to go get a test light atleast. If there is no sparking, you lost power to that switch.
I just HAPPEN to have a Diode in the drawer from a previous project. I used that to jump power from the good switch/power to the dead switch/power. Diode only lets electricity flow one direction so figure this was safer than just poking a wire in. Prevents back feeding that wire. But truthfully, I don't think it would hurt to just jump power between the switches. Odds are they lead to the same spot anyways...
This was on a 1991 XLT Lariat -6. Was also my driver window that was dead. So should be exact same, as far as window switch.
Last edited by TheJcode; Dec 3, 2011 at 11:44 PM.
