I have a 1995 f150, both driver and passenger side windows have the same problem. They go down, but when trying to go up they just kind of bounce(like they want to go up but not enough power) not sure if the motor is going out. But it does not sound like it's dying out?? Any Ideas? I sprayed wd40 around it today buy also did not work.

 

Sticky from old tint can get on your swipes and hold the window back as it catches it while going up.

 

Okay so here is what you might want to try, I literally just replaced my windows today and they were doing the same thing. Midas quoted me $300 for just one door, and they said it was the regulator arm which was total BS, because I actually had to take my motor apart and fixed both doors for about $50 total. Well my driver window didn't even go up or down and the passenger window would just go down. But okay so the problem is one of the two, for me it was both. But your brushes that power your motor, you know they give power to the armature and there fore causing it to spin against the magnets and is what powers the gears, or the cheap gear set up inside the motor head where the bevel gears are located have crushed because parts of them are plastic. My driver door was the brush problem and my passenger door was the crushed gear. but in order to get to these you have to take your door panel off and if there is a sheet of plastic kinda glued to the frame you might as well take that off, I did its fine. but you will now want to get your Window motor out and Mine was held in by four rivets. You want to make sure your window is up if you can if not no worries you can still take out the motor, if your window is up I would tape it now really good so that when you take the motor and regulator arm out it doesn't fall down. And if it is down once you take out the motor and arm push it up manually and tape it up. But take a punch and a hammer and punch out the center of the rivets. Now take a 1/4" drill bit and drill the rivets through make sure you drill straight and don't hit the sheet metal, because they are 1/4" holes anyway. But they will pop right off, and is extremely simple. Once you have two or so off already you might want to start holding the motor in place with your hand so it doesn't move and you can get the rest out easily. Now don't worry you can easily put it back in once its fixed with either rivets again, or what I did and was easier put in four 1/4 " 20 thread, split lock nuts and bolts with the split lock nuts facing you. now once you have got the motor out you will need to disassemble it to figure out the issue, If it is the brushes here is what you do: start off by unscrewing the two long screws at the bottom of the cylindrical part of the motor, where the wires come out. the bottom comes cap is what you want to look at and is where the brushes that come in contact with the armature are located, now your brushes should be about 1/2 an inch long maybe even longer. but if they are considerably smaller then they have been worn down and they do not create a strong connection with the armature, therefore resulting in a weak window motor just because of bad connection. You do not need to buy a whole new motor. now granted these replacement brushes are hard to find, they are not impossible. call around your local hardware stores, not necessarily auto parts stores because they will just have the new motor for you. but after calling around your hardware stores like and asking if they have any brushes that would fit your make and model electric window motor, but you would have better luck getting one close to size and filing it down with 60 grit sand paper. I got 4 Hel-8H 1/4" by 1/4" Helwig Brushes and took a tiny bit off of the bottom and both sides at time because it is easy to take to much off to quickly so be careful. And you might even have to take some off of the front with a file that has the right oval angle because you it might be to long for the armature to fit back in but you want to keep that oval in order to maintain good a connection. but once you have them to where they fit saudar them on to wear the old ones were, you can cut the old ones down as much as you can, but do not take them off because they are the connections to the wires. Now carefully reassemble your like new motor, and put it back in the door panel with either the rivets or nuts and bolts, and your all set. Now if It is the gears that have been crushed, do not panic you can easily fix it and make them better. First off start out by taking apart the gear coupling that connected to the regulator arm. there should be some screws there that are obviously holding it together. take them out. clean out the gears get the crumbs all out and spiffed up. you should now see what I am talking about. You have your pinion gear that has 9 teeth, and your plastic helical spur gear and three plastic bushings, if they are there. if there are just crushed pieces then that was them. now if your pinion gear is in good shape which it should be because it is metal then great. If your helical spur gear is in good shape then awesome. if all that is broken are the plastic bushings then simply replace them with the same part that can be found easily online along with the plastic helical spur gear that might be broken and just order it and replace them both. But like I was saying you Could replace the plastic bushings with 6 5/8" nuts. two stacked on top of eachother in each corner, they should measure 7/16 outside diameter so make sure they do. and fit them in there they will work just as good, even better actually because they will last longer. no just reassemble and reinstall with either rivets or bolts. I hope this could be of some assistance and Good luck!!

 

Wow that was a long how to. Just wanted to add those cheap plastic gears are that way for a reason. They are designed to fail if the window is put under too much pressure. It sucks that they wear out after a while but its better than accidentally severing an appendage in the window or shattering it when something gets stuck.

 

If our new member from Arvada makes all his posts that detailed, he will be a year older by the time he is a Senior member. Nice going n33young.

 

The passenger window on my 87 XLT would'nt work at all and the drivers was slow. I went to a pull a part junk yard and picked up to motors for about 40.00 then pull the door cover off. you have to drill a hole to get to the bolts but it is not a big issue. easier than tring to find the parts and repair the motors.

 

I did one junkyard motor like that for about $40. It lasted about 2 months. Then I replaced it with a new one from Autozone for about $60 fast quiet and smooth for about 3 years now. Well worth the money to just buy a new one.

 

Good job on write up. most of the time those plastic ***** are toast. Especially for having moved those windows up and down thousands of times. Cheap repair with just a little time and patience.

 

Thanks for the post, I am about to go to work on my passenger door window that is completely inop, thinkin about just forkin out the extra cash and replacing everything in there. I had a car one time that I paid a lot of money to get the motor fixed and three months later my regulator and track system failed.