i have a 89 f150 5.0 auto 4x4 it started running rough and cutting out on the front tank.on the back tank it ran fine but the metal tubes coming out of the sender were so rusted it poured fuel everywere so i parked it for 6 months and then replaced the rear tank and sending unit/pump in tank it helped but still acted stupid and i had to keep switchin tanks for it to run and not stall out sometimes i would get 10 miles and not have to switch tanks sometimes 3 it sounds stupid to do this but it kept it running well i let my friend drive it to work and it cut out on him and would not start i have replaced the fuel filter and fuel relay and put a new pigtail on the relay from a parts car that ran fine i have spark at the coil and at the plug wires i ran my auto xray and got codes but obviously only koeo codes since it wont start i got code 63 tp circut below minimum voltage or grounded code 24 act out of test range code21 ect out of test range 24 and 21 i figure that the car is not running but 63 tp can i put in a tp from a 88 5.0 van i know runs or is it a different set up this tp is on the bottom of the throttle body right i have a hayes manual but its no chilton !! i can hear the pumps kick on but when i push in on the shrader valve i get only i little gas like 1 drop even if i turn it over for 30 seconds and try the valve i get nothin i have not replaced the rail mounted pump but the van i mentioned has a new one and if possible i wanna try to switch parts with it to get it started instead of buying alot of stuff only to have it not start i hate to waste money when i know the 5.0 in the van runs great thanks for ur help guys

 

Welcome to the site.

Damn, your post gave me a big flippin' headache. Spelling and grammar count for a lot when reading text posts!

OK -
63 - TPS input too low - throttle position sensor
21 - ECT out of range - engine coolant temperature
24 - ACT out of range - air charge temperature

From what I understand - none of these should really affect the engine lighting off.

That generation has low-pressure pumps in the tanks, and a high-pressure pump along the frame.

If you're not getting pressure to the fuel rail as seen through the Schrader valve - you're on the right track with a pump problem. The pumps should give a 2-second charge when the ignition is rolled to the ON position.

Running pressure should be in the range of about 25-40psi while running. If you're not getting any more than a dribble out of the fuel rail - keep looking for a pump problem. The high-pressure pump would seem like a good candidate to verify next. Outside chance is the fuel-pressure regulator on the injector rail is stuck open.

 

if the inertia switch was bad or triped would i still hear the pumps kick on for 2 seconds ?

 

No - none of the pumps should work at any time if the inertia switch has tripped.

These switches can get to be a problem on older vehicles - there's a magnet holding a ball in place, which is supposed to get knocked loose and break the circuit in the event of a sharp impact. The failure deals with magnet getting weak.

Also, may want to check the fuel pump relays to be sure they're getting energized (relay coil) and that power is being passed through when it should be (relay contacts).

 

i have power to the relay and if i put my test light in the end of the harness with the relay installed my fuel pumps do make a hum but no fuel im gonna try to put a pump from my 88 e 150 in and see if it will give me fuel i mean why else would fuel not come to the rails it must be the high pressure pump right it makes noise but no gas what is that ??

 

Agree that the high-pressure pump would be the next thing to verify based on probability.

And if for nothing else, you'll know one more thing the problem isn't.

 

well i put the high pressure pump from my van in and still no fuel now i knew the front tank had a leak and was empty but the brand new back tank with the ''new'' advanced auto pump and sender was full of gas so i tested the power to that tank at the tank and it had power but no pump running sound so i take out the sender/pump and try to get it to pump on my work bench with another battery and heck no i has maybe 150 miles and is broke wtf i will never buy crappy parts agian ever tommorow i will replace it with one from carquest and i hope that it will continue running on that tank being as the front tank still has a hole in it but at least that tanks pump works thats how i got it started on tank one so i will be writing back for more help on sputtering eradic idaling and cuuting out later thanks guys at least i got it started yea!!!