P.M-ing my 91 F150
#11
Motorcraft PCV Valve - Motorcraft, nothing but Motorcraft, so help you Motorcraft. (With regards to the PCV).
With regards to the Rotor button, you've already replaced it, but Motorcraft DR374B is the best one (in my opinion). Better materials and best fit than most aftermarket units.
Note: I don't recommend Motorcraft for everything (or even mostly everything for that matter), but for these parts I do.
Also, with your oil filter, I'm assuming you didn't use an orange Fram, right? - If so, take it off now.
With regards to the Rotor button, you've already replaced it, but Motorcraft DR374B is the best one (in my opinion). Better materials and best fit than most aftermarket units.
Note: I don't recommend Motorcraft for everything (or even mostly everything for that matter), but for these parts I do.
Also, with your oil filter, I'm assuming you didn't use an orange Fram, right? - If so, take it off now.
#12
1994 F150 XLT 5.8L 2wd
For the headlight wiring upgrade:
https://www.f150forum.com/f10/upgrad...-power-277184/
When I put the 130a 3g in I used the old power wire to beef up the battery>body ground, put in 2 or 4 gauge battery line with a 150 circuit breaker.
To the OP
A few more things that you may consider (actually just some of what I've done) are:
New upper/lower ball joints
New inner/outer wheel bearings
Switch front springs to moog 824 (also requires new caster/camber bushings)
I also replaced the shocks all the way around with monroe sensa trac coil over load assisting in the front and monroe sensa trac adjustable air shocks on the back.
(If you have AC) Clutch bearing on AC as they are usually shot after 20 years.
That's all I can think of right now, know there is more but kinda spacey right now.
https://www.f150forum.com/f10/upgrad...-power-277184/
When I put the 130a 3g in I used the old power wire to beef up the battery>body ground, put in 2 or 4 gauge battery line with a 150 circuit breaker.
To the OP
A few more things that you may consider (actually just some of what I've done) are:
New upper/lower ball joints
New inner/outer wheel bearings
Switch front springs to moog 824 (also requires new caster/camber bushings)
I also replaced the shocks all the way around with monroe sensa trac coil over load assisting in the front and monroe sensa trac adjustable air shocks on the back.
(If you have AC) Clutch bearing on AC as they are usually shot after 20 years.
That's all I can think of right now, know there is more but kinda spacey right now.
#13
Senior Member
With regards to the distributor cap.....
You'll be OK with the Accel cap kit for now, but when time comes to replace it, go with a different brand.
I used the Accel kit when I first got my truck and the cap did not fit snugly at all. I was actually a bit disappointed because I rank Accel as one of the best.
Since then, I've used BWD Select (Part no - C194), Motorcraft (Part no - DH3221) and Standard (FD168) and the fit of the cap was so much better. All of these have the brass terminals.
#14
Senior Member
With regards to the 3G alternator upgrade, whether you go with a fuse or a circuit breaker, DO NOT CHEAP OUT on whichever one you decide to use. I use a fuse with mine and went with a Bussman setup.
I tried an el cheapo 150a fuse setup and the fuse housing along with the fuse literally melted. I tried a 150a Xscorpion circuit breaker after that and it blew the circuit breaker apart.
I didn't know of a good brand of breaker, so I went to ol' reliable Bussman fuses and have been good ever since.
I tried an el cheapo 150a fuse setup and the fuse housing along with the fuse literally melted. I tried a 150a Xscorpion circuit breaker after that and it blew the circuit breaker apart.
I didn't know of a good brand of breaker, so I went to ol' reliable Bussman fuses and have been good ever since.
#15
Senior Member
When I bought my '95 used here's the list I made,
-cap
-rotor
-plugs
-wires
-coil
-Replace wheel bearings
-new front pads
-clean rear drums
-replace brake shoes
-clean & lube adjuster
-oil & filter
-air filter
-clean throttle body
-clean idle air control valve
-fuel filter
-rear diff fluid
-flush brake fluid
-replace the transmission filter, then put on a Ford pan with a drain plug in it. Then drain and fill the trans every 2 weeks until the fluid stays nice and clean.
check motor mounts and trans mount
check u joints
check all steering gear and linkage
adjust steering box
check & replace all vacuum lines as necessary
Also, run 2 new ground wire1
1 from the negative terminal to the firewall ground wire at the firewall just above the A/C box.
2 run a wire from the negative terminal to one of the bolts on the alternator bracket.
I've done a **** ton of other stuff since then but this is the list I started with.
-cap
-rotor
-plugs
-wires
-coil
-Replace wheel bearings
-new front pads
-clean rear drums
-replace brake shoes
-clean & lube adjuster
-oil & filter
-air filter
-clean throttle body
-clean idle air control valve
-fuel filter
-rear diff fluid
-flush brake fluid
-replace the transmission filter, then put on a Ford pan with a drain plug in it. Then drain and fill the trans every 2 weeks until the fluid stays nice and clean.
check motor mounts and trans mount
check u joints
check all steering gear and linkage
adjust steering box
check & replace all vacuum lines as necessary
Also, run 2 new ground wire1
1 from the negative terminal to the firewall ground wire at the firewall just above the A/C box.
2 run a wire from the negative terminal to one of the bolts on the alternator bracket.
I've done a **** ton of other stuff since then but this is the list I started with.
Last edited by Crownman; 03-07-2015 at 11:16 PM.
#16
When I bought my '95 used here's the list I made,
-cap
-rotor
-plugs
-wires
-coil
-Replace wheel bearings
-new front pads
-clean rear drums
-replace brake shoes
-clean & lube adjuster
-oil & filter
-air filter
-clean throttle body
-clean idle air control valve
-fuel filter
-rear diff fluid
-flush brake fluid
-replace the transmission filter, then put on a Ford pan with a drain plug in it. Then drain and fill the trans every 2 weeks until the fluid stays nice and clean.
check motor mounts and trans mount
check u joints
check all steering gear and linkage
adjust steering box
check & replace all vacuum lines as necessary
Also, run 2 new ground wire1
1 from the negative terminal to the firewall ground wire at the firewall just above the A/C box.
2 run a wire from the negative terminal to one of the bolts on the alternator bracket.
I've done a **** ton of other stuff since then but this is the list I started with.
-cap
-rotor
-plugs
-wires
-coil
-Replace wheel bearings
-new front pads
-clean rear drums
-replace brake shoes
-clean & lube adjuster
-oil & filter
-air filter
-clean throttle body
-clean idle air control valve
-fuel filter
-rear diff fluid
-flush brake fluid
-replace the transmission filter, then put on a Ford pan with a drain plug in it. Then drain and fill the trans every 2 weeks until the fluid stays nice and clean.
check motor mounts and trans mount
check u joints
check all steering gear and linkage
adjust steering box
check & replace all vacuum lines as necessary
Also, run 2 new ground wire1
1 from the negative terminal to the firewall ground wire at the firewall just above the A/C box.
2 run a wire from the negative terminal to one of the bolts on the alternator bracket.
I've done a **** ton of other stuff since then but this is the list I started with.
The following users liked this post:
chesster51 (03-10-2015)
#18
1994 F150 XLT 5.8L 2wd
I picked a nice + terminal off of ebay, had multiple set screw clamps for 1/0, 4, and (2x) 8ga wires. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Premium-1-0-4-TWO-8-Gauge-Positive-or-Negative-Battery-Terminal-Post-Car-Amp-/351314359643?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item51cbf7b55b
- terminal I just got your standard clamp down kind that most auto parts stores carry.
I have never had an issue with cheaper breakers/fuses melting their housings, except once with the E-fan when I got the fuse holder too close to one of the metal lines on the pass side of the radiator, melted that puppy, replaced with same ebay purchased in line fuse holder but positioned away from hot line and no issue. Same goes with 150 amp breaker, got Scosche brand and zero issues.
[MENTION=4529]Chess[/MENTION]ter- They carry good quality battery cables at auto parts stores, as well as rockauto. For cheapest possible route get part number off of auto parts store wires that you want then buy them online, I've done that on a lot of things and saved close to 50% on most things. New negative terminal to chassis gound (just add wire to beef up existing ground), Positive to solenoid, and alternator to solenoid (I swapped both out then used the old factory wire to beef up the ground). Doesn't hurt to add a wire from the engine block to chassis ground either.
- terminal I just got your standard clamp down kind that most auto parts stores carry.
I have never had an issue with cheaper breakers/fuses melting their housings, except once with the E-fan when I got the fuse holder too close to one of the metal lines on the pass side of the radiator, melted that puppy, replaced with same ebay purchased in line fuse holder but positioned away from hot line and no issue. Same goes with 150 amp breaker, got Scosche brand and zero issues.
[MENTION=4529]Chess[/MENTION]ter- They carry good quality battery cables at auto parts stores, as well as rockauto. For cheapest possible route get part number off of auto parts store wires that you want then buy them online, I've done that on a lot of things and saved close to 50% on most things. New negative terminal to chassis gound (just add wire to beef up existing ground), Positive to solenoid, and alternator to solenoid (I swapped both out then used the old factory wire to beef up the ground). Doesn't hurt to add a wire from the engine block to chassis ground either.
The following users liked this post:
chesster51 (03-10-2015)