Overheating Issue
I suppose that it is possible that if no hot water is getting to the radiator, the air going through it wont be hot enough to activate the fan clutch. I would try some diagnostic tests on the fan clutch, and also the coolant temp sender. Conventional green coolant, when mixed 50/50 with distilled water, has a boiling point of about 265 degrees. So you are getting the temp past that point, which is less than ideal. If the water pump is new, it should be moving water just fine, unless there is an issue with the serpentine belt that is driving it. So it might be worth it to check for proper tension and tread depth on the belt. It is also possible that the belt could have been put on incorrectly, which would spin the water pump backwards. (I almost made that mistake myself once when assuming that I had the belt diagram remembered).
And in one picture you showed that you were using universal coolant. That wont be causing any immediate issues, but it will cause corrosion in your cooling system, which can cause cooling problems. The proper coolant is ethylene glycol, which is the conventional green coolant. Universal stuff does contain that, but it also contains a bunch of other ingredients for different types of coolant, and your cooling system wasn't designed to have those other chemicals in it.
And in one picture you showed that you were using universal coolant. That wont be causing any immediate issues, but it will cause corrosion in your cooling system, which can cause cooling problems. The proper coolant is ethylene glycol, which is the conventional green coolant. Universal stuff does contain that, but it also contains a bunch of other ingredients for different types of coolant, and your cooling system wasn't designed to have those other chemicals in it.
Just got back from the JY and replacing the radiator with one out of a 89 bronco. The drive home with AC on was fantastic. The gauge stayed at the N the whole way home. The truck runs great now and no longer runs hot. Now I can work on the the rust and interior. Thanks loads Steve83, that link and your help was awesome. Thanks raski for the gauge info I will be ordering a electrical oil pressure gauge, and Shagg for the coolant info. I will be changing that tomorrow along with the correct thermostat.
I never trust any "brand name" that's concocted to imply that the parts are good. DuraLast, HyperTough, SuperGreato!!! That's a sure sign that they're cheap garbage. Of course, AirTex, Spectra, & Anchor don't fit that pattern, and they're also cheap garbage. But until that pump shows some problem, there's no reason to change it.
Without the glove, you'd have also noted that it was also still cold.
Right.
Pull the radiator (you know you have to at some point) & look into the tanks along the radiator core tubes. Sometimes, large particles are visible blocking them. You can't dig them out enough to keep using the radiator reliably, but you can try to get a few out & see what they are. If you can ID their source, you'll have a better idea why it happened, and how to prevent it reoccurring.
Pull the radiator (you know you have to at some point) & look into the tanks along the radiator core tubes. Sometimes, large particles are visible blocking them. You can't dig them out enough to keep using the radiator reliably, but you can try to get a few out & see what they are. If you can ID their source, you'll have a better idea why it happened, and how to prevent it reoccurring.





