Ordered new plugs
Been reading that "bucking" thread and I thought to myself I should change mine as well. Not too many miles since it was changed last but it was at the shop when they replaced my CAT and running smooth but for about 6-8 months now, getting that bucking, or weird hesitation at 30 and 45mph.
First time I tried and couldn't get to the passenger side. But now since shop did it, didn't think about it now.
What are you using besides a 5/8 plug socket? What extension? Which swivel? Or can I get the type has the plug socket, extension, and a swivel all built in? Or is that too limiting? I think I once read the passenger side towards the firewall is better to do from underneath?
Guess I'm just looking for extension/swivel combinations I can use for this truck (and maybe others).
First time I tried and couldn't get to the passenger side. But now since shop did it, didn't think about it now.
What are you using besides a 5/8 plug socket? What extension? Which swivel? Or can I get the type has the plug socket, extension, and a swivel all built in? Or is that too limiting? I think I once read the passenger side towards the firewall is better to do from underneath?
Guess I'm just looking for extension/swivel combinations I can use for this truck (and maybe others).
I used a spark plug socket with with a u joint adapter, various extensions depending on which one I was doing, and a breaker bar. Once they break loose, they come undone by hand. The ones nearest the firewall are easiest to get to from underneath. Re-thread them by hand until finger tight and then put a wrench on it to tighten. Some of the boots are a real PITA to get off, depending on how long its been since they have been pulled off.
I used 3" extension, sparkplug socket and 3/8" ratchet. Mine all came off ok, I climbed ontop of the engine for most of them.
I found the hardest part was getting the plug wires off. Where the air tube runs on passenger side is problematic. So are the engine lift brackets.
What are you going to gap yours to? Under hood sticker on mine showed .52, but that seems huge. I left my copper autolite 25s at .45
Platinums might use a bigger gap??
If you're getting the really hard buck, feels like engine shuts off and back on, that was my distributor being bad, think the stator or hall sensor is what goes bad.
It was a pretty easy swap but you'll need a timing light and 1" socket.
I found the hardest part was getting the plug wires off. Where the air tube runs on passenger side is problematic. So are the engine lift brackets.
What are you going to gap yours to? Under hood sticker on mine showed .52, but that seems huge. I left my copper autolite 25s at .45
Platinums might use a bigger gap??
If you're getting the really hard buck, feels like engine shuts off and back on, that was my distributor being bad, think the stator or hall sensor is what goes bad.
It was a pretty easy swap but you'll need a timing light and 1" socket.
.44 and .54
I bought Motorcraft from Rock Auto and it is pre gapped to .54. I got to a Motorcraft page and put it my year/engine and it said .54. So now I'm confused.
Yeah man I was confused too. I went .44 because .54 looked too big. However if the come gapped at .54 then I'd let it go

