So I got a 92' F150 4x4 regular cab with the 5.0L engine and auto last week ,I paid $900 for it but it needs some work , brake line ,front brakes and a exhaust repair ...as far as the brake does it pay to get crossdrilled rotors and ceramic pads ? this truck is going to be use for towing and snow driving , exhaust since I have to change it Im getting a flowmaster 40 series that Im going to re-route so the tip is in front of the wheel not out back like original ,was thinking about getting the dual outlet one so 2 tips at 45 degree angle will show (what do you think? ) and tires thinking 32's or 33's MT's or AT's the previous owner got the F250 leafs in the rear so it looks raise from the rear but Im planing in getting F250 springs in the front or that 2'' base that I so in ebay so the original springs can seat on that ...opinions and advise is welcome even better will be pics of your truck with 32's or 33's on stock suspencion or 2" lift ....by the way 32's and 33's are going to kill my MPG right? unless I get new gears right? Thanks for reading .

 

I just have regular smooth rotors, and el cheapo brake pads on 36s, and I can still easily lock them up. The weak point of the braking system is the master cylinder, not the pads and rotors. if you want a little more clamping power, you can upgrade to an f350 brake master cylinder. The exhaust routing is personal preference. And the mileage loss by stepping up to 32s or 33s really depends on what gear ratio you currently have. I wouldn't regear for 33s, unless you have 3.08s or something instead of the usual 3.55s

 

All cross drilled rotors really accomplish is premature rotor failure.

There have been a ton of discussion about this on other forums, and unless the cross drilling is done in a very precise manner (as in thousands of $$ per rotor) it accomplishes nothing. It does, however, induce cracking in the rotor prematurely quite well.

 

If your serious about some bullet proof brakes:http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/faqs.shtml#3 On the exhaust, come into a Y that enlarges into a single high capacity Cat and then onto whatever suits your fancy after that. On tires, the largrer & heavier, the less MPG & higher wear and tear factor on the powertrain. There's a balance point between practicality and the wow affect in appearance. Even Ford has little faith in it's transmission engineering, providing the shortest of all Warranties Ford = 60K/ GM = 100K/ Dodge = Limit Lifetime! So how hard do you want to push the envelope?

 

Thank to everyone that reply, how can I know the gears in my truck ? is 33" tires too big for stock suspencion ? or like I said a 2 inch lift , this truck has 114000 miles and Im going to keep for about 1 year until I buy another one newer and with a supercab so Im not worry about the extra stress of the bigger tires.
Any pics of f150 with stock suspencion and 33's?? or 32's thanks
And I'll do the regular rotor with good pads then.

 

I have a 93 F150 that now has a 4" lift, but when I had stock suspension and 33X12.5's the tires would rub a little when I was turning and hit a descent bump, but otherwise, it was fine. As i was taught on the forum, look at the back of your rear end housing and there should be a tag that is held on by one of the bolts, the bottom line of my tag says 3 08 88.... That means that my gears are 3.08 and I have an 8.8 rear end. If you can find the tag, you should be able to see what gears you have.

 

mine is an 89. the same suspension but a different front clip and interior. but i can fit 32's on mine with a stock f150 suspension. it looks pretty good to.i get about 9mpg's outta my I6 but i have a random misfire i have been chasing.

 

As far as suspencion goes if I get a stock F250 front coils will that raise my F150 2"?? and what's the brake point on this trucks where you start getting driveline vibrations , I had lifted jeeps and land rovers and you can't go pass 3" lift without vibrations unless you put some heavy $$ into it .Just wondering Im not familiar with F150's.