Newbie. Oh boy.
https://m.imgur.com/gallery/NXgvzPA
I haven't had a ford for 30 years and have never owned a full size. This is like visiting a different planet. I live in Wisconsin where EVERYTHING is a rot box so since this is from Alabama (and freakishly rust free) and only has 104k on the clock I was stoked (although I paid a premium at $3,700)
So far I am really digging it though. Here are some pertinent details:
1. I hate sloppy steering. It's not really that bad but I want a new gearbox already
2. The dude really messed with the emissions (302) and he deleted the egr. I hate CHECK ENGINE more than I hate sloppy steering.
3. I can't stand everything bouncing and rattling. Feels like the dash is loose. And the door panels. And the trim.
Looking forward to learning. Dreading the unknown.
I haven't had a ford for 30 years and have never owned a full size. This is like visiting a different planet. I live in Wisconsin where EVERYTHING is a rot box so since this is from Alabama (and freakishly rust free) and only has 104k on the clock I was stoked (although I paid a premium at $3,700)
So far I am really digging it though. Here are some pertinent details:
1. I hate sloppy steering. It's not really that bad but I want a new gearbox already
2. The dude really messed with the emissions (302) and he deleted the egr. I hate CHECK ENGINE more than I hate sloppy steering.
3. I can't stand everything bouncing and rattling. Feels like the dash is loose. And the door panels. And the trim.
Looking forward to learning. Dreading the unknown.
Welcome to the club! Some more details about the truck would be good....check on making a signature in your user profile so we can always see what you are working with.
1) It's probably not the gear box - more likely sloppy tie rods, or a bad rag joint in the steering shaft. Or crappy alignment. Or crappy shocks. Or bad wheel bearings. Or bad ball joints. Or a combination.
2) I'd recommend posting up pics of what he did to delete the EGR - is there a block off plate installed?
3) Trucks made after 94 got a more reinforced dash bracket on the passenger side. If you can lift the passenger side up and down fairly easily, there is an aftermarket bracket kit that you can use to repair it.
https://shop.broncograveyard.com/199...ctinfo/371190/
There are probably tons of missing trim screws, or stripped out screw holes that no longer hold the screws to the trim firmly. If the door panels have ever been removed then the clips that hold them in are probably trashed.
I learned how to wrench on my truck. 5 years ago I couldn't even tell you what a transmission looks like. You're in good company here. The key is to plan ahead and buy parts online. Rockauto's full catalog will become your friend. Youtube will become your friend. There is so much info on these trucks its ridiculous.
1) It's probably not the gear box - more likely sloppy tie rods, or a bad rag joint in the steering shaft. Or crappy alignment. Or crappy shocks. Or bad wheel bearings. Or bad ball joints. Or a combination.
2) I'd recommend posting up pics of what he did to delete the EGR - is there a block off plate installed?
3) Trucks made after 94 got a more reinforced dash bracket on the passenger side. If you can lift the passenger side up and down fairly easily, there is an aftermarket bracket kit that you can use to repair it.
https://shop.broncograveyard.com/199...ctinfo/371190/
There are probably tons of missing trim screws, or stripped out screw holes that no longer hold the screws to the trim firmly. If the door panels have ever been removed then the clips that hold them in are probably trashed.
I learned how to wrench on my truck. 5 years ago I couldn't even tell you what a transmission looks like. You're in good company here. The key is to plan ahead and buy parts online. Rockauto's full catalog will become your friend. Youtube will become your friend. There is so much info on these trucks its ridiculous.
Agree with all that BLDTruth said! I've replaced everything he mentioned above, and the radius arm bushings too. I just replaced the Moog ball joints I put in about 3-4 years ago with Motorcraft, only got about 60k out of the Moogs. Next up is replacing the Moog tie rods I put in about 2-3 years ago with Motorcraft ones. So you can probably see I'm not too happy about Moog! Some people have had good luck with them, but I wasn't one of them. I also put in a Redhead steering gear and I'm pretty happy with it. All of these are doable yourself if you're handy at all, and you'll save a ton on labor if you can do it yourself. And I agree about Rock Auto being a great place to get parts, but check Amazon too. Sometimes they have a better price. But I'd suggest sticking with Motorcraft as much as possible.
I'm going to take your advice and everything you said. One question though to show how much of a newbie I am is can you tell me is this thing looks like it has a lift kit on it? One of the things I don't like is the ride quality and it looks like he put the lowest level shocks on there he could. I was going to replace them but the first question is whether it has been lifted or not and I honestly don't know. It looks like there's a block between the rear axle under the u-bolts but I'm not sure if that means it's lifted.
I'm going to take your advice and everything you said. One question though to show how much of a newbie I am is can you tell me is this thing looks like it has a lift kit on it? One of the things I don't like is the ride quality and it looks like he put the lowest level shocks on there he could. I was going to replace them but the first question is whether it has been lifted or not and I honestly don't know. It looks like there's a block between the rear axle under the u-bolts but I'm not sure if that means it's lifted.
I'm going to take your advice and everything you said. One question though to show how much of a newbie I am is can you tell me is this thing looks like it has a lift kit on it? One of the things I don't like is the ride quality and it looks like he put the lowest level shocks on there he could. I was going to replace them but the first question is whether it has been lifted or not and I honestly don't know. It looks like there's a block between the rear axle under the u-bolts but I'm not sure if that means it's lifted.
This caption explains how to collect all the truck's details & organize them for your signature:
(phone app link)

It also contains a link that explains how to embed pics in your posts; and another that's a list of automotive terms & abbreviations. This caption explains how to get the best edition of the Haynes manual for your truck's year:
(phone app link)

When you have one, read it cover-to-cover (eventually) so you know what's in it & where to find things. Then keep it in the truck with a few tools in case you need them on the road.
This shows the factory rear suspensions:
(phone app link)

This is the pic you tried to link:
It appears to be a '95-96 with some replacement body parts. The more pics you upload (inside, outside, under the hood, & underneath), the more we can help you learn about its history, condition, options, & modifications.
(phone app link)
It also contains a link that explains how to embed pics in your posts; and another that's a list of automotive terms & abbreviations. This caption explains how to get the best edition of the Haynes manual for your truck's year:
(phone app link)
When you have one, read it cover-to-cover (eventually) so you know what's in it & where to find things. Then keep it in the truck with a few tools in case you need them on the road.
This shows the factory rear suspensions:
(phone app link)
This is the pic you tried to link:
It appears to be a '95-96 with some replacement body parts. The more pics you upload (inside, outside, under the hood, & underneath), the more we can help you learn about its history, condition, options, & modifications.
Last edited by Steve83; Oct 12, 2019 at 10:50 AM.





