need some info. building a flatbed
Hey! Anyone here ever build a flatbed on an older ford f-150? I have a 95 XL and want to remove that old rusted box then build an all wood flatbed. Not a super fancy expensive wood bed, but a decent well made job. Anyone have ideas on measurerments, or materials? Thanks for any info/ input! scout4
I've done a couple of flatbeds over the years. It's not that difficult. There are just different things to think about before hand.
1: You'll need to mount up the fuel filler(s) and make sure that they're high enough so that they pitch down into the tank.
2: The "free surface area" needs to be 4' x 8' so that you can load in a piece of plywood and have it fit right.
3: Look at a steel flatbed and take note of the side rails. Think about how the ratchet straps hook in to tie down a load and then come up with something similar in wood.
4: Removable sideboards are nice. You definately want a solid "headache board" in case your load shifts forward during a hard stop.
5: Plan out your wiring for the tail lights ahead of time. It's really nice to have a couple of spot lights wired into a relay on the backup light circuit.
6: I would just go with ordinary KD lumber. 4 x 4's for the frame and 2 x 6's for the decking boards. They'll outlast the truck.
7: You could try to lighten up the frame if you can figure out a way and still have it solid. See ... the problem that i ran into was that the 4 x 4's were too stiff. The original metal body was designed to flex and bend. A sub frame that's too stiff holds the rear wheel with the least amount of traction up off the pavement. It does affect driveability in snow and mud. It's less of a problem if you've got posi-trac or 4WD.
8: The whole thing will go together a lot easier with torx drive GRK framing screws.
9: Remember to keep your sub framing away from the rear wheels. You don't want to load the truck and have it bottoming out so you have to plan for clearance.
10: Don't forget the mud flaps. You want to get some heavy ones so that they don't fly up in the wind. One of the big ones off a class B truck cut in half does a pretty good job.
That's about everything that comes to mind right off the bat but it's been a few years since i've done one.
1: You'll need to mount up the fuel filler(s) and make sure that they're high enough so that they pitch down into the tank.
2: The "free surface area" needs to be 4' x 8' so that you can load in a piece of plywood and have it fit right.
3: Look at a steel flatbed and take note of the side rails. Think about how the ratchet straps hook in to tie down a load and then come up with something similar in wood.
4: Removable sideboards are nice. You definately want a solid "headache board" in case your load shifts forward during a hard stop.
5: Plan out your wiring for the tail lights ahead of time. It's really nice to have a couple of spot lights wired into a relay on the backup light circuit.
6: I would just go with ordinary KD lumber. 4 x 4's for the frame and 2 x 6's for the decking boards. They'll outlast the truck.
7: You could try to lighten up the frame if you can figure out a way and still have it solid. See ... the problem that i ran into was that the 4 x 4's were too stiff. The original metal body was designed to flex and bend. A sub frame that's too stiff holds the rear wheel with the least amount of traction up off the pavement. It does affect driveability in snow and mud. It's less of a problem if you've got posi-trac or 4WD.
8: The whole thing will go together a lot easier with torx drive GRK framing screws.
9: Remember to keep your sub framing away from the rear wheels. You don't want to load the truck and have it bottoming out so you have to plan for clearance.
10: Don't forget the mud flaps. You want to get some heavy ones so that they don't fly up in the wind. One of the big ones off a class B truck cut in half does a pretty good job.
That's about everything that comes to mind right off the bat but it's been a few years since i've done one.





