Need help identifying a part.
I replaced it and on my 20 minute drive home from advance it ran much better and didnt stall when i stopped at lights, however it still stalls if I put it in reverse. Any ideas on what would cause that? Also the check engine light is still on, I havent checked the code but im guessing its still the same one.
The code you said was coming up is for a malfuction with your MAP sensor which can create a lean/ rich fuel mixture, which means there could be a majority of things throwing it off. Vacuum leak being one of them and easiest to spot. If you think its vacuum related, check your hoses for leaks etc, then use a pressure tester to check your EGR to see if its working correctly. Bad EGR's can cause your truck to run rough and stall. The top pic is your EGR vacuum solenoid. There are plenty of guides on youtube that show you how to test that. They are notorious for failing too. You can try cleaning it because carbon can build up in the ports or replace it if it is bad.. Make sure you use electrical cleaner and some really fine pipe cleaners so you dont damage it. If that doesnt work test your engine manifold vacuum and MAP sensor. If the map sensor is fine the vacuum test will tell you if your getting low (rich) or high (lean) pressure and cut in half what could cause the code.
Last edited by Khill3253; Oct 28, 2014 at 02:41 AM.
Im still getting code 22 and have been unable to find any vacuum leaks. Im also getting code 32 evp voltage below closed limit and code 67 neutral/drive swaith open or a/c on, clutch switch circuit failure, mlp sensor out of range or a/c on e4od. It also is now surging a little when left running in park and i am occassionally hearing a brief squeal when braking that doesnt sound like my brakes. My brother in law suggested the vacuum pump which i found that part to buy but cannot seem to find its location anywhere.
Last edited by BrockSampson; Oct 28, 2014 at 09:31 PM.
I replaced my map sensor and it fixed my stalling issue and my truck is running much better and my check engine light is off. It started surging when idling or stopped, im thinking thats a vacuum leak.
I would also recommend borrowing a vac gauge if you don't have one, pull the break booster line from the firewall and hook the vac gauge up while running, should be constant/steady 18-22hg. Watch this video, this guy explains the different things you can learn from a 3-5 minute vacuum test.

