In need of A/C
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Joined: Apr 2012
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You can check the connector at the compressor clutch for voltage.
Also there is a fuse .. (position 6, on mine 15amp) for the AC clutch.
An easier route would be to skip it for now and check the plug at the reciever/dryer first.
On the passenger side up by the firewall there is a cylindrical canister that the AC lines run to. On the side/near top of this is an electrical plug. It's a pressure switch. Pull that plug and check for battery voltage at one side with truck running AC on max.
If you're getting power, try jumping from one side of the plug to the other.
If the AC compressor now kicks on, then your problem is either a bad pressure switch, or low pressure in the system.
I should note that you should try to turn the compressor by hand first, to make sure it isn't ceased up. Don't try to turn the pulley, but rather try to turn the clutch face inside the pulley (with vehicle OFF!!!).
edit : Just remembered you're looking at a '92 and I'm looking at a '96 so locations and such may not be the same.
Also your system is likely an R12 system. You need a liscense to purchase R12 because the eco-morons think R12 will destroy the world. This was the big "hole in the o-zone layer" scare, which was later proven to be false, but the laws passed in response to the fraud remain to this day. R12 is a much better refridgerant, IMO If I had an R12 system I would do what I could to keep it that way, but that's probably just my anger toward the mental midgets who are the eco-nuts.
Sorry.....what were we talking about?
Also there is a fuse .. (position 6, on mine 15amp) for the AC clutch.
An easier route would be to skip it for now and check the plug at the reciever/dryer first.
On the passenger side up by the firewall there is a cylindrical canister that the AC lines run to. On the side/near top of this is an electrical plug. It's a pressure switch. Pull that plug and check for battery voltage at one side with truck running AC on max.
If you're getting power, try jumping from one side of the plug to the other.
If the AC compressor now kicks on, then your problem is either a bad pressure switch, or low pressure in the system.
I should note that you should try to turn the compressor by hand first, to make sure it isn't ceased up. Don't try to turn the pulley, but rather try to turn the clutch face inside the pulley (with vehicle OFF!!!).
edit : Just remembered you're looking at a '92 and I'm looking at a '96 so locations and such may not be the same.
Also your system is likely an R12 system. You need a liscense to purchase R12 because the eco-morons think R12 will destroy the world. This was the big "hole in the o-zone layer" scare, which was later proven to be false, but the laws passed in response to the fraud remain to this day. R12 is a much better refridgerant, IMO If I had an R12 system I would do what I could to keep it that way, but that's probably just my anger toward the mental midgets who are the eco-nuts.
Sorry.....what were we talking about?
Last edited by I-Hate-Fords; Jun 12, 2012 at 07:38 PM.
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Joined: Apr 2012
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[img=http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/5089/switch003.th.jpg]
[img=http://img829.imageshack.us/img829/6621/switch002.th.jpg]
Stupid pics aren't working. They link fine in preview, but once I post them they give a 404 error.
Anyway, you want to use a short peice of wire and simply 'jump' it from one side of that plug to the other.
Unplug it, then jump it in the plug, not the switch itself.
This sends the signal as if the switch is 'on'.
If your compressor kicks on when you jump that plug then you either need to charge the system (it has low pressure so the switch is not turning the compressor on), or the switch itself could be faulty (less likely).
Last edited by I-Hate-Fords; Jun 12, 2012 at 08:08 PM.
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Just unplug the plug on the side of the reciever/dryer, the one you took the pics of.
Then take a small peice of wire, strip the ends. Shove one end into one side of that plug, then touch the other end to the other side of the plug.
You're just 'shorting' the two wires in the plug.
One should have battery volts when the truck is running/AC on.
The pressure switch simply connects those two wires to tell the compressor to turn on.
All you are doing is connecting those two wires as the switch would.
Then take a small peice of wire, strip the ends. Shove one end into one side of that plug, then touch the other end to the other side of the plug.
You're just 'shorting' the two wires in the plug.
One should have battery volts when the truck is running/AC on.
The pressure switch simply connects those two wires to tell the compressor to turn on.
All you are doing is connecting those two wires as the switch would.
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Joined: May 2012
Posts: 6,778
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i've read the thread...
while i know i can't really contribute to this thread... i would like to say to the OP...
log everything you have done and tried.
when all else fails, take it in to a shop.
i know you won't want to because i wouldn't want to also.
but, at least you'll know you can have a tech look at it and by logging what you've tried and done, you may be able to cut the overall cost of the labor down.
hope it goes cold for you.
while i know i can't really contribute to this thread... i would like to say to the OP...
log everything you have done and tried.
when all else fails, take it in to a shop.
i know you won't want to because i wouldn't want to also.
but, at least you'll know you can have a tech look at it and by logging what you've tried and done, you may be able to cut the overall cost of the labor down.
hope it goes cold for you.
I'm Still Down Home
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 203
Likes: 16
From: In the Florida Woods
I know I am sort of hijacking this thread, but how would one go about getting an R-12 system to use R-134A? Does it require draining the oils? I heard that the old oils don't mix with the new oils, and it can cause problems later. Also, they said that you should replace the receiver/dryer when doing so. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.