Multiple Engine Codes and Occasional Stalling 93-F150 302 5.0 LV8
09-09-2014, 08:48 PM
#1
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Multiple Engine Codes and Occasional Stalling 93-F150 302 5.0 LV8
These are the codes I've gotten from my OBD1 reader, and what I've googled that each code means. I have no idea what these mean, so It may as well be in mandarin.
81 - Boost control solenoid, AIRD Solenoid, 3OL SHO - Inlet air solenoid
82 - 23TC Fan Control wire shorted to ground, AIRB Solenoid, 3 8L SC Super charger bypass solenoid
85- 23 L T/C Automatic - 3/4 - 4/3 Shift Solenoid, CANP Solenoid (all 1989), 19L MFI (system has corrected rich condition)
84 EGR Vacuum Regular, EGR cutoff solenoid, EGR vent solenoid
10 ? Could not find a 10 on any code website, but my reader showed it.
33 All-EGR did not open/respond during test or if memory code, did not open intermittently EVP EVR PFE
I was told by the guy at an auto shop to denote all codes, and try to find a similar issue with all the codes shown, and fix that problem. I can't see a link with any of them.
It's a 93 F150 5.0 L V8 302. It has 160,000 miles on it, and leaks oil and transmission fluid. I have replaced the IAC valve, the TPS sensor (not sure if it was installed properly) and a mechanic a while back replaced the EGR valve and sensor. After said mechanic did that, it began to have issues with stalling. You hit the gas to back up or move forward and let off, it stalls and dies. Ive gotten use to this problem, and it doesn't happen anymore. If you throttle it and keep going until second gear, when you let off it does not act like its going to die.
There is a slight ticking noise under the hood. I believe I've traced it to the purge solenoid, but that may not be what is making the noise.
A side note is the alternator overcharges the battery.
Can anyone help me? I'll do my best to answer any questions that are asked.
81 - Boost control solenoid, AIRD Solenoid, 3OL SHO - Inlet air solenoid
82 - 23TC Fan Control wire shorted to ground, AIRB Solenoid, 3 8L SC Super charger bypass solenoid
85- 23 L T/C Automatic - 3/4 - 4/3 Shift Solenoid, CANP Solenoid (all 1989), 19L MFI (system has corrected rich condition)
84 EGR Vacuum Regular, EGR cutoff solenoid, EGR vent solenoid
10 ? Could not find a 10 on any code website, but my reader showed it.
33 All-EGR did not open/respond during test or if memory code, did not open intermittently EVP EVR PFE
I was told by the guy at an auto shop to denote all codes, and try to find a similar issue with all the codes shown, and fix that problem. I can't see a link with any of them.
It's a 93 F150 5.0 L V8 302. It has 160,000 miles on it, and leaks oil and transmission fluid. I have replaced the IAC valve, the TPS sensor (not sure if it was installed properly) and a mechanic a while back replaced the EGR valve and sensor. After said mechanic did that, it began to have issues with stalling. You hit the gas to back up or move forward and let off, it stalls and dies. Ive gotten use to this problem, and it doesn't happen anymore. If you throttle it and keep going until second gear, when you let off it does not act like its going to die.
There is a slight ticking noise under the hood. I believe I've traced it to the purge solenoid, but that may not be what is making the noise.
A side note is the alternator overcharges the battery.
Can anyone help me? I'll do my best to answer any questions that are asked.
09-09-2014, 09:19 PM
#2
1994 F150 XLT 5.8L 2wd
My initial thought would be that if you replaced the TPS and IAC and have a stalling issue that you didn't install the TPS correctly.
1) Disconnect the wiring harness from the TPS.
(CAUTION) Never smoke when working around gasoline! Avoid all sources of sparks or ignition. Gasoline vapors are extremely volatile!
2) Matchmark the sensor and throttle body for installation reference.
3) Remove the 2 retaining screws and remove the TPS.
4) Install the TPS so that the wiring harness is parallel with the venturi bores, then, rotate the TPS clockwise to align the scribe marks.
(CAUTION) Slide the rotary tangs into position over the throttle shaft blade, then rotate the TPS ClockWise ONLY to the installed position. Failure to installl the TPS in this manner will result in excessive idle speeds.
5) Tighten the retaining screws to 16 inch-pounds.
(NOTE) When correctly installed, the TPS wiring harness should be pointing directly at the air bypass valve.
6) Connect the wiring.
If you didn't follow this you can adjust it using a voltmeter on the black wire to .95-.99v (.98v being recommended).
I believe, but may be wrong, that if the IAC is unplugged and doesn't have the stalling issue then it's bad. Even though you just replaced it you could have gotten a defective part. With a little searching you can find the correct voltage for a test.
The codes are saying EGR is faulting, you have bad grounds,
Another sugg.
Find and fix the stalling issue IAC, TPS, or EGR (test vacuum and voltage), then unplug the battery to reset your codes and take another reading in a couple of days, anything that comes back needs to be addressed, if they were never reset some codes could be old.
1) Disconnect the wiring harness from the TPS.
(CAUTION) Never smoke when working around gasoline! Avoid all sources of sparks or ignition. Gasoline vapors are extremely volatile!
2) Matchmark the sensor and throttle body for installation reference.
3) Remove the 2 retaining screws and remove the TPS.
4) Install the TPS so that the wiring harness is parallel with the venturi bores, then, rotate the TPS clockwise to align the scribe marks.
(CAUTION) Slide the rotary tangs into position over the throttle shaft blade, then rotate the TPS ClockWise ONLY to the installed position. Failure to installl the TPS in this manner will result in excessive idle speeds.
5) Tighten the retaining screws to 16 inch-pounds.
(NOTE) When correctly installed, the TPS wiring harness should be pointing directly at the air bypass valve.
6) Connect the wiring.
If you didn't follow this you can adjust it using a voltmeter on the black wire to .95-.99v (.98v being recommended).
I believe, but may be wrong, that if the IAC is unplugged and doesn't have the stalling issue then it's bad. Even though you just replaced it you could have gotten a defective part. With a little searching you can find the correct voltage for a test.
The codes are saying EGR is faulting, you have bad grounds,
Another sugg.
Find and fix the stalling issue IAC, TPS, or EGR (test vacuum and voltage), then unplug the battery to reset your codes and take another reading in a couple of days, anything that comes back needs to be addressed, if they were never reset some codes could be old.
Last edited by fltdriver; 09-10-2014 at 06:11 AM. Reason: Another sugg.
