I need to change the motor/transmission mounts for 4.9L m5od 1996. By the way, the passenger side mount top bolt was accessed from the top under the AIR tube with my 3/8" drive ratchet, deep 16mm socket, 3" extension and 3/8 coupler -total 6 7/8" tip to tip. It just fits and leaves the wrench handle out for cheater pipe. With engine hot, it didn't take any effort to turn the bolt, but I tightened it back. PB blaster day before. My questions:

1. is 2 3/4 ton floor jack enough to lift engine and the transmission? I plan to put a jack stand under the engine as well while working.
What is the weight of the engine and/or transmission? It's not in the web.

2. the top bolt came out so easily, now I'm wondering if it was a little lose. On install, is 80 ft-lb enough?

3. do the mounts slide off with engine bolts removed? That is, do I just take the weight of the engine, or does it have to be lifted higher like the oil pan?

Thank you in advance.

 

you'll have to lift it up... I would NOT suggest taking the motor mounts loose and the trans mount at the same time... one or the other but not both. if you do it will slide.

take the bottom bolts loose from under the vehicle and then the top... put a piece of wood under the oil pan and jack it up til the mounts pop out... one jack will work as the engine is roughly 600 pounds fully dressed if not less. I used a engine hoist to lift mine.

 

Thank you. Maybe I'll rent the hoist, if the price is right.

 

Got the passenger side done. That was a crazy day. The DEA mount holes did not line up with the engine. Tried rear first, front first or top first. Two bolts might go in, but last one will not line up. For example, if front and top bolts were in, rear engine hole and the mount hole would be about 1/4" off laterally. Taking the engine up and down had nothing to do with how the holes lined up. Found autozone that actually had the mount in stock. 2 hours round trip and the Duralast did not fit either. They looked exactly alike, by the way.
Finally drilled out the hole laterally, about 1/8" for the rear and little less for top and front. Started with the rear, then lifting the engine to match the top then the front did the trick.
I think none of these after market mounts will line up. I think it's more like the mount has to be twisted using the bolts and the weight. I made sure the bolts were mostly in the engine. I didn't want to somehow bend the bolts. When the engine bolts were snug, let the engine down, and the mount bolt settled into the bottom of the lop sided oval.
I am a bit amazed that it was done at all. 2 mounts and neither looked like they would plug and play. I only got the passenger side done today, but the engine and maybe even the drive felt tight. The old mount was trashed and I just got used to jumping engine.
It was also funny how the shifter stick is closer to me now. So I was wondering if there was a way to adjust the shifter away from me? New driver side mount may do it, but the old one looks like it is still whole and I want the shifter further away. Now I'm shifting with my arm almost against my side. I forget what it felt like in 1996.
Another question is that the transmission bolts are seized in the aluminum bolt hole. 13mm 3/8 drive socket split apart. Should I try heating the part that bolts go into, but how? Are there gaskets and transmission parts inside that can be damaged by heat? What happens to the aluminum body?


This is just a observation, but (from the photos) the Anchor brand mount looks more like the oem. The top bolt flange has a rounded construction. This round is deeper on oem and the Anchor. DEA and Duralast had the round that is only half as deep. I read some poster saying he didn't have problem with the holes lining up with the Anchor mount.

As always, thanks in advance.