Well, I finally got me rearend rebuilt and got the truck back last night. I feels so good to be driving MY truck again instead of my parent's cars. Anyway, I decided to check my engine codes. Here's what I'm coming up with.

KOEO: 111 172 332 334 628

ER: 116 311 632

What do I have? Also, what source do you get the code ID from?

 

111 - you'll always get that. If it's the only code, you're good to go.

172 - O2 sensor senses lean condition (this isn't a bad sensor - it's probably due to the EGR codes below, and the O2 sensor is doing what it's supposed to do)

332 - Insufficient EGR flow detected

334 - EGR closed voltage higher than expected

628 - Converter clutch error in E4OD trans (I got this code off and on when I had EGR problems - not a worry at this point)

You've got EGR problems...

I'd start with the easy stuff like vacuum lines. Check all the lines and fittings related to the EGR and the solenoid for leaks - there are a few hidden around the back of the intake too.

Apply vacuum to the nipple on top of the EGR valve (either with a vacuum pump or with your mouth) - can you see it move through the holes around the bottom? Does it seem to move smoothly? If not, remove it and try spraying it with some carb cleaner to get the junk out. Take a look at the orifice in the intake while it's off because that sometimes gets plugged up too. Another test with everything connected is to let the truck idle, and give the throttle some gas while looking in the holes - as you increase throttle, the valve should open.

When the truck is idling, do you hear a sound like an exhaust leak? The inlet tube running into the bottom of the EGR valve is prone to rusting out and causing flow problems.

Hopefully you'll find it by this point - if not, the rabbit hole goes much deeper!

 

Well, I had a friend check the EGR valve with a vacuum pump a few weeks ago. He said the valave showed to be working, but when he pumped vacuum into the EGR, something started making a whistling noise. It had never made the noise before and has done it occasionally since. It may be one of the lines behind the intake you mentioned, because that seems to be the general area the noise is coming from. I'll check all these things and let you know what I find out.

As far as that converter clutch problem you mentioned, you said it may be related to the EGR system. What problems exactly would the converter clutch cause? At times, my transmission will start shifting VERY hard, almost like a maxed out shift kit. My transmission guy said the tranny's ECM is reading a problem and switching to a "fail-safe mode", which basically means it runs full pressure to the valve body to keep it from getting too low pressure and burning up the tranny. Would this be true?

 

I'm not sure exactly how it works, but the tranny is electronically controlled. It seems that everything else in the system that 'talks' to the ECM can have an effect on the tranny.

When my EGR issues started, I honestly thought that the tranny was about to fall out of the truck. It would slip, shift hard, etc. The converter clutch code would come and go during the whole deal.

It took about a month (felt like a year) to get the whole thing resolved. Once the EGR was right, the tranny smoothed out and ran like new.

 

That's good to know. My buddy who's a mechainic at a Ford dealership, asked the tranny guy about my problem and he automatically said I would either need to rebuild or replace the tranny. I kind-of thought was a bit extreme since he'd never even looked at it.

The trans repair shop I normally use said these trannies hardly ever go bad and need rebuilt. He said the problem may be computer or electronics related. Looks like he may be right.

Thanks a bunch for the advice. We had bad weather yesterday and I didn't get a chance to check it out. I'll try to look at it today.