Nice place. I think the op question has been pretty well covered right? A little side chat doesn't hurt now and then.

 

It's not hard to create a new thread.

 

True, but quite a bit of the threads on here seem to wander off in one direction or another, not saying its right or wrong, just stating the facts.

 

I just glanced through the thread, but I don't see where anyone has discussed boxing the frame. I've seen allot of working restorations where the frame was boxed in for little cost and a huge gain in strength. You can do a partial frame box with the chassis intact, or a full frame box with a chassis off. Even the partial box in key areas can gain allot of strength. Suspension areas front and rear, hitch area and mid chassis between the bed and cab were the areas where I saw the partial boxing being done with great success. Best thing was that the boxing can be done with odd sizes of steel plate scrap lowering the cost tremendously.

 

iv not seen much of a frame problem in these trucks (unless rust is an issue) i more often see problems like leaf hangers, leaf packs, axles, studs, and rims. breaking before the frame, the only problem iv seen thats more common is just folding the truck in half between the cab and bed.

 

I see that allot around my area in older pick ups. There's an old man in town running scrap with his frame buckled at the cab and he's still hauling scrap in his early 80's f150. Boxing the frame in that area might have helped. I'm amazed he's still driving the old trick like he is. I want to get a look at his drive shaft and rear tranny seal....lol. I wouldn't crawl under the truck though!

 

These frames are pretty sturdy. Remember they are pretty much the same up to the 350. Compare one to a mid 2000 pickup, especially an import. So unless its a rust issue I don't think the frame is the weak link for hauling. Now if your talking about body flex thats a different story. The ladder frame layout is prone to twisting.

 

I usually load my truck up with a lot. I have 3 new rear spring hangers, and one that needs replacing. I easily carried 700 pounds of scrap metal today

 

I think that a lot of times people simply aren't aware. Spend a three or four hours under the truck pounding out all of the loose rust on the frame.

Pull the truck forward then sweep all of the rust up into a neat pile and load it into trash can. Next ... try to lift that trash can.

See ... at one time that used to be the steel that makes up the frame of your truck. Over time it was converted to rust.

The worst places for rust growth are where two pieces of metal are joined together with bolts or rivets. It's places like the shock towers, spring hangers, tow bars, and frame cross members join.

These also happen to be the most critical stress areas when you're hauling a load.

Just for the heck of it pull one of those rusted out stress areas apart to see just how much metal is actually left.

It ain't much.

 

once again that only pertains to the rust belt, i only have light surface rust/factory paint on my frame.