Not naming where I work currently (in IT) but it has to do with roads and tolls. And I hear customer service people all the time say "but my GPS told me to go that way (and thus bypassing the tolls but only if they have a transponder)". While there are 3 or 4 clearly visible signs before the toll that says "stay on the right to pay cash" and gps tells then to keep driving.

I'm old school. people make fun of me for printing out google maps but I'm better at bird's eye view of the lay of the land than "turn in the next 30 feet" gps voice. I feel like a puppet on a string.

 

I am in the same boat with old vs new trucks. I would put a little money an time into my old truck anytime. These new truck just don't cut it for me. Case in point, I parked next to a co workers brand new Chevy 1500 z71 off-road the other day. A picture is worth a thousand words lol...notice the height difference mine is stock.

 

^ right on. Well said!

 

Exactly now that I am where I am in my comfort level working on vehicles, I shudder when I think about people terrified to do something as simple as an oil change / tire rotation. I get it, I was there once, but now, I'm internally screaming "Learn! Just go try it!! I'LL TEACH YOU FOR FREE!" Can't tell you how many cars I've worked on just right here in the parking lot during my lunch break

 

I don't think most people realize just how much they are paying their mechanic. A couple of months ago my nephew wanted to take his 2000 F150 into the shop to get his rear rotors and pads changed. He was quoted $400. I took him down to the local parts shop, got him all new rotors and pads for the front AND rear for $190 and we changed them all out in 3 hours time. Needless to say he calls me now when something is wrong with his truck.

I should have probably mentioned I easily spent ~$500 in tools over the course of these last 9 months. That in itself is often the obstacle many people face when they decide to start working on a car. By the time they buy the tools they need to do the job they probably have spent as much money to have a mechanic do the job. But you only have to buy the tools once, and a lot of times you can rent them.

 

I once took my truck to a dealership because my input seal to the rear axle was leaking. I explained it, and they wrote "engine oil leak" on the paper. I said "That's not what I told you.." And they responded with "They'll find it and fix it!" Sure enough, 3 days later I'm called to get it and the paper said "oil filter tightened." And the leak was still there.

I vowed then and there I work on my own truck, period, no matter the cost of parts and tools!

 

Posted this on another forum this morning - thought I would update here too. 6 months later:

Transmission/transfer case Flush - $25
Rear Differential Flush - $20
Brake Flush - $10
Fuel Filter - $10
Vacuum Lines - $25
PCV - $10
Tensioner/Idler Pulleys - $60
Airbag Clockspring - $50
Oxygen Sensor - $25
Spark Plugs and Wires - $55
Ignition Control Module - $55
Distributor - $40 (JY)
Ignition Coil - $25
Upper/Lower Ball Joints - $110
Rear Driveshaft - $100 (JY)
Rear Driveshaft Universal Joints - $25
Rear Brakes (New Drums/Springs/Shoes/cylinders) - $140
Front Brakes (New Pads, turned rotors) - $50
Front and Rear Shocks - $160
Front and Rear Sway Bar Bushings/Links - $150
Tie Rods - $190
Coil Springs - $70
Alignment - $150
Dash Bracket Repair - $30
Dash Pad - $90
Dash Trim - $25
Seat Restore - $650
Windshield - $180
Door Handles - $20
Vent Window Latches - $25
Tailgate Strikers - $20
Passenger Door - $50
Passenger Fender - $50
Windshield Cowl Panel - $20
Limited Slip Rear Axle - $160
Alcoa wheels - $75
Steering gearbox - $130
Saginaw Power steering pump/hose - $90
Serpentine Belt - $30
-----
Running Total - $3180

 

Hey James, I keep telling you that I'm not that far from you and I'm sure you'd have fun working on my truck too!!! Needs some ball joints and a steering box for sure, could use a clutch too! Just sayin.....