Lift kit! Finally!
#32
Off road rebel
Originally Posted by 7700 in Alberta
I don't do it. But I have seen it done numerous times.
If I was you I would go to a welding shop and get something built.
I made these 4" blocks in 20 mins.
#33
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I'm gonna throw on f250 leafs for right now. If I go for 6" later ill probably get an add a leaf or build a block, thanks for the help though I appreciate it.
#34
Originally Posted by 94Brodyf150
Normally with 4" or bigger, the block is supposed to be tapered to tilt the axle to be more straight with the driveshaft. Driveline angles are a big factor in the wear and tear of trucks with lifts.
So when you lift your truck and add a tapered block to a drive line that wasn't meant for it you can actually cause a vibration.
Example: 92-97 f250-350 don't have a tapered block from factory. (F350 is a 4" NON tapered block.)
99-04 f250-350 superduty have a tapered 2" block from factory.
So saying "normally a 4" or bigger block is supposed to be tapered"is incorrect.
Last edited by 7700SCREW; 07-05-2012 at 12:28 PM.
#36
Senior Member
Originally Posted by seprice40
Another question, is a coil compressor really needed for me to install the coils?
#37
Originally Posted by seprice40
Another question, is a coil compressor really needed for me to install the coils?
#39
Off road rebel
Originally Posted by 7700 in Alberta
Ya and I have built a lot of tapered blocks for that reason....but it's not that simple. The factory sets the angle from which your transfercase out put and differential yoke are supposed to be for numerous wear and vibration reasons.
So when you lift your truck and add a tapered block to a drive line that wasn't meant for it you can actually cause a vibration.
Example: 92-97 f250-350 don't have a tapered block from factory. (F350 is a 4" NON tapered block.)
99-04 f250-350 superduty have a tapered 2" block from factory.
So saying "normally a 4" or bigger block is supposed to be tapered"is incorrect.
You STILL need to add a taper to a truck that doesn't have one IF you lift the rear more than 4". Look at all the kits. All blocks are tapered for f150. It because when the axle get pushed downward(or frame gets lifted) whatever is easiest for you to think of. The driveshaft gets a steeper angle. But the axle will still be sitting level. That can create about a 30 degree angle on some trucks. The U joint has to compensate for the angle. Causing that vibration. If you put the tapered block in, the axle gets tilted backward. Then the yoke and the driveshaft are perfectly straight. There will be no vibration because the u joint will not be twisting and clacking into position try to compensate.
#40
Originally Posted by 94Brodyf150
Your correct. Heavy duties have bigger (thicker) suspension in the rear. They don't have as much of an angle as the f150s. The f150s only have 4-6 leafs. The trucks you listed have 8-10 along with the progressive leaf pack. Not much angle needed. My 6" kit came with a big taper block. And a carrier bearing drop bracket because the taper required was unsafe. Believe me, I've installed numerous lifts, the angles need to be all inline.
You STILL need to add a taper to a truck that doesn't have one IF you lift the rear more than 4". Look at all the kits. All blocks are tapered for f150. It because when the axle get pushed downward(or frame gets lifted) whatever is easiest for you to think of. The driveshaft gets a steeper angle. But the axle will still be sitting level. That can create about a 30 degree angle on some trucks. The U joint has to compensate for the angle. Causing that vibration. If you put the tapered block in, the axle gets tilted backward. Then the yoke and the driveshaft are perfectly straight. There will be no vibration because the u joint will not be twisting and clacking into position try to compensate.
All I'm saying is there are so many suspension variations that saying any block bigger then 4" needs a taper is incorrect.
Last edited by 7700SCREW; 07-05-2012 at 07:03 PM.