Just picked up this 1988 F150 for cheap and a previous owner disconnected an aftermarket ignition switch in a rather bizarre way. I tried replacing the ignition starter switch but it looks like another owner in the past set up a tachometer and the aftermarket ignition switch and likely disconnected the stock ignition starter switch from activating the motor. I attached some pictures of where I'm at now. My options are to either figure out how to rewire that ignition starter switch back up or try and pull things apart and just put it back as stock. Any thoughts or ideas would be much appreciated. I included pictures of the wires in the engine compartment and a little bit of what is under the dash and how it was rewired.

 

I'm not much of an electrician, but I can't stand when people add wiring and just jam it in the fuse panel (assuming that is what I'm looking at). I would try to get it back to original. It's really not that complicated on how it works. I think some people feel it's easier to bypass things. If you know someone with a similar truck, you could probably figure it out looking at theirs.

 

Here's the ignition switch wiring diagram from Haynes.


I can see an ignition switch in your picture. What condition is it in?
If it hasn't already happened, don't rotate the key cylinder any farther forward than is required to unlock the steering wheel. The key cylinder has a gear on the end of it, that needs to mesh properly with the linkage to the push rod, that operates the column mounted ignition switch.
Does it feel like that rod moves properly when you rotate the key?
I would try to rewire/reassemble the column mounted ignition switch. The top half of the switch, which has the factory wiring attached, plugs into the bottom half.
After it's reassembled, you could try manually operating the column mounted ignition switch, before reinstalling it on the steering column. Just make sure you do that with the truck out of gear, the parking brake set and wheels chocked.
If you can get it reconnected, and the actuator rod moves properly with key cylinder movement, you can try reinstalling it and see what happens when you turn the key.
If the actuator rod doesn't seem to move properly with the key cylinder, that's a separate issue, that'll require some steering column disassembly.
It's hard telling why the previous owner changed the wiring. Could be something relatively simple or something more complicated.

 

The old ignition switch seemed to be in good shape but I replaced it with a new one. Checked the ignition switch manually like you suggested and that did not activate the starter at all.

 

Are all the wires present on the harness side of the switch?


Try pulling the clutch interlock safety switch up the pushrod by about a half inch, while you manually move the ignition switch. (Truck out of gear, parking brake set, wheels chocked)
I'm assuming you pushed the clutch pedal in when you manually activated the ignition switch to test it.
That clutch interlock safety switch needs to be functional for the start circuit to work.

 

There should be at least 8 wires to the ignition switch, maybe 9, if you include the ground that's shown at the upper right side of the diagram.
Two of the wires shown on the diagram are "diesel only".

 

You checked the ignition switch actuator?
Maybe it is broken?
Maybe that is why they did all the wiring repairs and pulled the switch out

 

I'm not sure I did put the clutch in. I did not realize there was a clutch switch until I saw someone else's comment about a faulty switch there too.

1. Tested the clutch safety switch and that works.
2. Rewired the old aftermarket switch so I can start it up if I want but I'd rather clean up the fuse box and get the key ignition working.
3. Testing the ignition switch manually with clutch in today. Maybe it is the ignition switch actuator.

Thanks for your help!!

 

Okay! So I was able to manually start the engine with the ignition switch after engaging the clutch.

Then I just needed to adjust the ignition switch so that the actuator rod would actually work. Mission accomplished so the key works now and I'm going to see about cleaning up the fuse box and what-not.

On to other adventures. Thanks for your help Soup Bean!

 

Glad it worked out.