Hey again y'all. I spent a few minutes using search and I looked at a few videos on Youtube but...

Like the title says, I can start the truck but the key doesn't spring back from "start" to "on", this has to be done manually. The tension is so weak that sometimes it will shut off even while you carefully manually retard the key back from "start" to "on". It will sometimes shut itself off while in reverse, sometimes it will fire itself back up, it's never shut itself off while driving. I think this is the most strange behavior because it rides like a buckboard wagon and I would think that if it were a weak connection it would CONSTANTLY have the problem but not always.

Youtube is really helpful and I've already found diagrams on what parts probably need to be replaced. And I've found threads on why those parts probably **don't** need to be replaced. And I've found threads and videos on why they have to be replaced now. I know some people say that the whole column is probably messed up from climbing in and out using the wheel maybe the previous owner did that (the most recent owner prior to me was maybe 115 lbs soaking wet and even though I'm 300 I use the armrest because I know using the wheel coming in and out will wear it all down). I know some people say that the grease just breaks down, the teeth in the actuator wears down, the ignition switch goes bad and the ignition switch is why the spring action happens in the first place.

I think for the $30 in parts I am going to start buying parts and dig into my steering column and worst comes to worst I just have new parts in there. I am going to start with the ignition switch, test, then move on to the actuator, test, the move onto the lock cylinder and just stop whenever it starts working.

The reason I am coming to you all though... I have found all this information but I have found 0 information about how to do the cleaning. No information about what chemical to use to strip the old schmoo off, no information about what kind of grease needed to replace it with, no information about quantities, no information about what it should look like greased up to avoid overgreasing, no information beyond "and you should clean and lube this". I got some advice from a trusted friend that said use Deoxit for the cleaning because of the electrical components. Nothing on the lube though.

There are only about 4,000,000,000,000 different cleaners, degreasers, and lubricants out in the wild. What would be the appropriate kinds for this application? Given the symptoms, do you think I'm on the right track with the ignition switch, then actuator + cleaning, then tumbler?

Thanks in advance.

 

A combination of soft cloths or blue paper towels to wipe away grease and grime and isopropyl alcohol to clean with usually works well. Use electrical contact cleaner where appropriate. Don't overthink this. Start out by looking closely at the electrical part of the ignition switch .

Jonathan

 

It's not from pulling on the wheel - it's due to a design/material flaw in the actuators. The pot metal just isn't strong enough for the shape. Click this & read the caption:

(phone app link)


Rebuilding those old columns is so complicated & confusing that I've never had the patience to take pics & document it the few times I've done it (MANY years ago). There are a few writeups out there, but none that I've found to be complete, comprehensive, or even coherent. Most of them have lost their pics.

The short answer is: any solvent that breaks up the grease. The best replacement grease is Ford PTFE.


But before you tear into the column, simply unbolt the ignition switch & see if it springs back when you operate it manually. Then check if the actuator follows the motion of the key. That will tell you which section contains the problem.

(phone app link)

 

I can say my 87 did this and I have pulled these columns apart on several Fords and it is very difficult and tedious. Last year, I placed the straw of a can of silicon lubricant deep into the key inlet, and worked it.I sprayed a fair amount in there. It freed up and has been great since then, even on those cold mornings.. Worth a try and may save you some grief.

I addition to the binding, pulling on the locked wheel to get in can break the actuator rod because there is a thick, strangely shaped key inside the column which locks the wheel and pressures that actuator rod.

 

I just did this with some WD-40 silicon lube with PTFE....put straw in as far as it would go, gave it a liberal shot or two...put key in and worked it back/forth around 10 times. Seems to be working.

 

You are almost five years too late.

 

ya ya, you sound like my wife