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I have replaced icm 3 times now. And this last time I rerouted it to driver fender (pic attached) after 3 days or so it **** out on my again I let it cool for half hour or so and drove home. Is there a fix for this yet? whatelse should I test/replace?
when i first purchased truck it was sooooooo slow. Adjusted timing and unleashed a bunch of power. Since then I have adjusted timing, cut and spliced in the relocation of the icm, also cut and wire nutted the inertia switch due to it was rusted out(read a forum that stated it could be faulty causing truck to shut off)
Truck runs great just keep shutting off! and its the most annoying thing EVER!!
Thanks Got a chunk of aluminum from work for now, currently waiting for heat sink to come in.
If you are not using a Motorcraft module, I would do so. Are you cleaning any oxidation off the heatsink before applying the thermal compound? So many others have never relocated the ICM because of heat. I still have my original distributor mounted ICM on my 87 and never had a problem.
When you have a no start condition, did you determine if you are losing spark or fuel pressure? The inertia switch has nothing to do with the ignition system, it will open the power circuit to the fuel pump upon an impact.Have you checked the pickup coil in the distributor? Spray circuit cooler and a heat gun are handy items used to troubleshoot intermittent temperature sensitive problems.
The splicing you did to relocate the ICM is just opening a can of worms for future problems.Wire nutting the inertia switch is asking for problems. all splice connections you performed should have been soldered with heat shrink placed over the joint(s).
+1 for the Motorcraft module and ground your heat sink plate
I would get the correct distributor and a new correct DU 50 Motorcraft stator
So dirt and moisture do not get inside
There is a good read on this as it ended up being a class action lawsuit back in the day
"Ford TFI Module National Class Settlement" The Center for Auto Safety