My truck started surging at idle. Pulled code and got 33, EGR vavle not opening/closing. The truck already have a new EGR sensor and ECM, IAC, O2, TPS, VSS, and ignition system. I guess I have to either pull the EGR valve out and clean it or replace it.

I've been chasing this issue since I got the truck. Could it be anything else?

 

vacuum issue or fuel pressure/availability

check both out again

 

Here are my thoughts:

1) Replace ALL of your vacuum lines. Do not pass go, do not collect $200.
The vacuum lines are 5/32 and you will probably need at least 2 Vacuum T's.

2) The EGR Valve and EGR Valve Position Sensor is a riddle of sorts. If you go with an aftermarket EGR Valve Position Sensor, use the SAME name brand EGR valve. It has been my experience that when you mix and match name brands with regards to the EGR Valve and the sensor on top of it, you will have issues. Also, there is an EGR Solenoid that can go bad as well. The vacuum hose on that is the one that runs to the EGR valve.

3) Do #1 before anything else. You'll need about 20 feet of hose.

 

I just went back and read your post. I think one of your problems might be the EGR sensor if it is an aftermarket. You will need to use a Motorcraft EGR Position Sensor if you are still using the factory EGR Valve.

 

Also, with that EGR sensor, make sure you have the right part number as well.

 

Factory vacuum lines are junk after about 20 yrs. I've been through a lot of hiccups with my EGR system from discovering the tube to the exhaust broken under the heat wrap to the vacuum line broken and or worn through in multiple spots. The only bonus I had out of all of it was that the big nut holding the tube to the manifold wasn't frozen and turned off easily. Fixing all of that was pretty cheap and solved my idle and drive ability headaches. Even when some components were bad mine didn't throw codes.