Hey everyone I recently had one of the cyl. in my motor blow, it's a 1995 f150 xl with a 5.0L. I found a whole truck for cheap but it's a 1990 5.0l so I am wondering what I need to do to be able to put the older motor in my truck. I am aware of the different firing orders which can be solved by rerouting the plug wires, but what I am concerned about is the injectors. I am unsure of my truck uses a batch of sequential firing order. Honestly I am unsure what either of them use. Thanks for the help!

 

How exactly did that happen? Did you fix whatever caused that, or are you just going to blow the replacement?That & all the truck's OTHER details need to be in your signature so we know what you're talking about. Click this, read the whole caption, study your truck:

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There's also a link in that caption that explains several ways to embed pictures in your posts. The more pics we can see of the truck, the more likely we can help you.Depends what you mean - I've put an old motor in my truck by setting it on an old tire in the bed. The point is: there are several distinct ways of "putting it in". If you want the truck to run right, there are only a few, and starting with a '90 isn't the best, quickest, easiest, or cheapest way of doing it right.No, that alone won't make it run right. The firing order has to match the camshaft (when the valves open).If you transfer all the truck's original engine wiring onto the donor, you won't have to worry about it. But if you want to know which it is, make sure you put ALL the details into your signature.

 

Steve83

​​​​​​The injector stuck open causing too much fuel to enter the cyl. I took the plug out and it was wet with oil, I am constantly losing oil and whenever I take the spark plug out of that cyl. ( Which has since been replaced) it is black with oil. I updated my signature and put a picture on my profile hope that helps. I have the motor from the 1990 to swap with my current one. I am wondering if need to switch the cam to get the firing order and injector sequence to be in sync. I was just curious as to what they both uses for injector sequences, ie batch firing or sequential

 

It's almost impossible for an injector to stick open. In the many hundreds of vehicles I've worked on, I've NEVER found an injector that failed in any way - only a few that were damaged (mechanically by collision or clumsy mechanics, electrically by lightning strike, or by fire). The only way I can imagine one sticking open is if it's bent at the instant that it's open, but that's still not likely.

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Did you actually test the injector (maybe by blowing air through it) to find that it was stuck open?

And it's very easy to mistake almost any fluid in a combustion chamber for oil because even water will pick up the soot & odor from the engine parts, and look like oil. Test it on a white paper towel to see how it separates as it wicks through the fibers. But if it IS oil, that needs to be diagnosed first.

Swapping the cam will probably make using the wrong engine more expensive & complicated than just buying the right one - either used, or from a quality remanufacturer. And at that point, there's no reason to keep the original - turn it in as a core, and get back to driving.

All MAP F-series batch-fire the injectors. All MAF ('94-95 optionally & '96-up standard) are sequential. Study this:

(phone app link)

 

I tested the fuel pressure and dropped very quickly after priming the pump with the key, my question is will the motor run correctly with the camshaft from a 95? I don't care about how much work it is I'll do it.

 

That's a vague question. Obviously, a 5.0L engine CAN run correctly with the '95 cam - many thousands of them have & still do. It can also run correctly with a '78 cam, or a '90 cam, or an '02 cam. But it CAN'T run correctly with the wrong mix of parts, or some bad parts, or incorrect wiring, or... So the least effort to make it run right is with all the right parts. Yes, putting a '95 cam into the '90 long block will make it effectively a '95 long block (with a lot more wear, and a few antique parts). But that still doesn't mean it'll run right, if any of the other parts in the '90 engine are worn out or damaged. To be sure, you'd have to completely rebuild it. That will take you more time & cost you more $$ than just swapping the original '95 for a good remanufactured '95-compatible long block.

But it's your time & your dime.