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Old Aug 9, 2011 | 03:42 PM
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i had a buddy do some work on my truck and it aint no better than it was before. i had him replace the timing chain, water pump, t-stat, oil pan gasket, and coolant flush. YET it still is sparky knocking from a dead, the fuel mileage sucks and now i have a ticking noise until the truck get up to temperature.

i cant get over 150 mile per tank...im actually thinking fuel from my back tank might be going in front tank but i have no way of knowing because my front tank sensor dont work and i never use that tank because of that. the ticking just started after he worked on it but i dont understand why it only does it when cold or after sitting for about a few hours. the cooling sytem seems to be working much better except now i hear coolant gushing thru heater core the first few mins after start up (but this has been like that since ive owned truck) actually sounds like a air pocket but seems to be working fine.


PLEASE SOMEONE HELP IM RUNNING OUT OF ADVIL.
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Old Aug 9, 2011 | 07:39 PM
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How competent is your buddy? Not to offend, but to gauge about where to start...

Year and engine would be helpful...

The SPOUT connector trips up many not familiar with Fords - can end up with timing way too retarded (that would be 'late' for the PC crowd), leading to spark knock.
Cheap/bad fuel is another possible cause. Or, if the truck has been run on higher octane fuels long-term previously - could have combustion chamber buildup that artificially raises compression to the point of causing knock on switching back to 87 octane.
If you're not sure about tank transfer, one solution is to fill up / top off both tanks at a time.
Ticking while cold could also be a slightly cracked exhaust manifold that seals off as it heats up.
What shape are the plugs, wires, rotor, cap, and coil in?
Does the coolant temperature run in the normal range?
Does the engine sound like it's otherwise running normally - no loping or shaking that might indicate the dreaded one-tooth-off on a timing chain replacement?

Good luck and keep us posted.

Last edited by wde3477; Aug 9, 2011 at 07:41 PM. Reason: oops - wrong way on the potential timing error
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Old Aug 10, 2011 | 08:11 PM
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he's pretty good he works at a performance just building drag car (http://www.horsepowersolutions.net) they build some pretty bad *** cars so this was basic for him.

-i check the timing my self and it is set @ 12 degrees with spout plug pulled out
-i have replaced plugs,wires, cap and button
-since he replaced the water pump/t-stat/ and flushed radiator it is at the "R" in normal if not a lil lower.
-if was down on power before and was spark knocking real bad, it has seemed to get better but still their.

ill try topping off both tanks and see what that does, i wish my front fuel tank sensor worked then i would use that tank more often.if i run 93 octane it dont knock at all, and if it does its very faint and rarely, but i cant afford to run 93 @15mpg. as soon as i drop to 87 it starts knocking.

oh yah it a 1995 5.0l with a 4speed.

ive been thinking about fuel pressure dropping and when in combination with 87 that might be it but IDK. would a fuel filter cause a fuel pressure drop?

Last edited by gokartrule; Aug 10, 2011 at 08:18 PM.
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Old Aug 11, 2011 | 06:05 PM
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IMO, things look OK so far. IIRC, the base timing is 10BTDC but setting to 12 shouldn't bring on spark knock.

Don't think that you have a fuel pressure problem, but in response to your question - yes, a restricted filter will cause a pressure drop, not to mention the extra stress on your fuel pumps.

Since bumping up to 93 octane seems to quiet the problem - suggest to give a combustion cleaner product a whirl - Seafoam is a site favorite, another I like is Berryman's B12. Reason being that not only do combustion chamber deposits raise compression, the rough edges of the deposits become hot spots that light off the fuel too early.

Can introduce into the fuel tank, or for a more radical approach - dump it in via the power brake vacuum line, slowly enough so as not to hydraulic-lock the motor, but fast enough to gag the engine to a stop as the last of the can goes in. There should be some threads on this site addressing the more specific 'how-to' of this approach.
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Old Aug 11, 2011 | 06:26 PM
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If your doing Seafoam there's a how to in the how to section that walks you through it
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