Working on tearing down this 93 300-6 for a rebuild. I have run into a huge problem. I can't get the bolt out of the end of the crank. I've tried a little heat, but don't want to add too much. I'm not sure if it will cause any warping. Any ideas folks?

 

I've always wedged something on the flywheel to prevent the engine from turning and take a breaker bar and a socket and have at it.

 

I've got that going right now. 1/2 inch drive 18 inch breaker bar, and a 30 inch sleeve over the end of the bar. Not one mm of give from the bolt.

 

Got pissed and torched it good. Came right off. Now I'm trying to figure out what bolts fit in the holes to pull the balancer. None of mine fit.

 

I had the same issue, i just used 1/2" breaker bar that is 24" plus a sleeved pipe over the end of the bar that is 36" long. after about an hour of struggling and formed a headache it finally broke loose. i used a puller and the right bolts and couldnt pull balancer off. broke my craftsman 3/8" ratchet got another one and then broke the main bolt that goes through the puller. all without moving balancer any. im trying to change oil pan gasket and the repair manual says you need to remove the balancer. does it really need to be removed to take oil pan off?

 

I do not have to take the balancer off to remove the oil pan. I assume you don't either. If your engine is in the truck you will most likely have to unbolt the engine from the mounts and lift it to get the oil pan out. With my 300 I had to unbolt the engine from the mounts, unbolt the trans from the cross member, and lift it to where the trans was touching the tunnel, then unbolt the oil pump to get the pan out.

 

do you have auto or manual?

 

Auto. E4OD

 

i have the mazda m5r2. i had to lift the motor almost 7" off the motor mounts.

 

In my falcon I put the breaker bar against the frame and bumped the key (coil wire off) and it came right off .