It was my understanding (not based on any facts, mind you), that the black ones are wired differently and wouldn't allow a push start which doesn't matter on an automatic. And that the grey ones are wired differently to allow for a push start.
That may be a totally bogus theory but then why have different ones ? The motors are the same so they should all work the same.
This will take a little more investigation - personally I always like to know the reason behind the assumption.
I think the bit that RPetty posted may have some answers in it.

 

Well I have a black one on the fender with a 5 speed and I can definitely get a running start....have done it a couple of times after leaving my lights on. So the mystery continues....

 

As the article points out there are two gray and two black modules, one as push start and the other as non-push start. However, I agree there is no reason why a standard trans wouldn't start if pushed regardless of the module. The issue is terminal #4 and the signal it sends. It sounds like the signals are similar, but not exact, and will work with either system. However, it sounds as if the signal is just different enough to cause problems. Of course the smart thing to do would have been to make the newer system work using the older signal. But what fun would that be? This is exactly what I'm talking about when it comes to the propellers heads that design this crap. They probably wouldn't know which end of the screwdriver to hold onto....

 

93 ford f150 ignition control module xlt 5.0. I bought my truck 2 years ago from the orig. Owners son had issues but been working on them. Had 145... miles about a month later truck wouldn't start. Wasn't regularly driving it just maintenance on air intake, plugs, wires, muffler, power steering pump, brake lines, fuel filter, egr system, oil change,fluids ect. Truck worked fine day before now it would not fire. Fuel pump turned on engine cranked just no.combustion. I tested the ignition system back to the module mounted on the driver side right where the hinge for the hood is. It was a plug in clip wire harness with a female end on one side and the (as I have come to know it) "ignition control module" the module was held on to the trucks shell with 2 screws opposite from one another and at each end inside of that was a black motorcraft module attached by 2 screws. I needed a deep well socket I believe it was the 5.5mm or close to it a 1/4 I know was to big. After my own investigation I decided on the standard from orileys auto.it was black. I have used these only sense. I have had to replace it 8 times in the last year! There is no common denominator in when or why it does it nothing I can figure out atleast. It just doesn't start so I immediately go use my warranty and get a new one. Last week it happened and yesterday it did it again. Orileys didnt have the black one in yet because I had just got it. I got a grey one. It fired on the first try and honestly I felt like it fired quicker then normal. Sense I haven't felt the same but it hasn't taken any longer to turn over then normal either. My question is simply which one do I need to be correct? And what can happen if the wrong one is installed? Is this why i was having to replace the black ones so often? Will this change now with the grey? Please let me k ow if u need more information please ask for it and I'll get it for you tha k you.

 

There is a very knowledgeable guy elsewhere on the internet and he says you need the black module for 1994 and newer trucks and the grey module for 1993 and older. So you should be using the grey module.

Do you apply heat sink grease or di-electric grease to the back side of the modules when you install them? I believe you still need to do this on the modules that are mounted away from the distributor.

 

Do you apply heat sink grease or di-electric grease to the back side of the modules when you install them? I believe you still need to do this on the modules that are mounted away from the distributor.[/QUOTE] no I have not put this on it honestly I knew nothing about it at all until u said something where do I get it and what is it called?

 

Well, some guys claim that you need to use a special heat sink grease, which I doubt is easy to find even at auto parts stores. I just use di-electric grease, most any auto parts store should have it. Applying di-electric grease should greatly increase the life of the modules, in fact the modules that are away from the distributor rarely go bad.

 

The answer is simply: it depends on how your truck is built. That's not enough description to know, because '93 was the year that Ford changed it for the 5.0L (only) mid-year. So you have to do some more research to find out what your truck originally had. It's long & technical, but this page contains the information you need to positively ID which ICM your truck should have:

(click this text)
That you replaced it is irrelevant. What matters is: what TEST did each module fail? And did each replacement pass the SAME test?The engine won't run exactly right, but probably not enough for you to notice.Probably not.Probably not.It's not for us - it's for YOU. The more you tell us about your truck, the more likely our suggestions will be relevant & productive FOR YOU. All your truck's details (EVERYTHING) should be in your signature as this page explains:

(click this text)


Grease is not critical. As long as the surfaces are clean & flat, they'll transfer enough heat. But grease helps KEEP them clean by slowing corrosion.

 

that special grease should come with the new ones I know mine did. But I need to go get the black not the grey one from what I am understanding

 

This thread has been dead over a year.