Today as I was driving, I hit a poorly repaired spot in the road and my truck cut off. I tried to restart and it wouldn't. I opened the hood to see if anything obvious had been knock loose and saw nothing. I switched from the front tank to the rear and it started. I then switched back to the front and it died. So I spent the day driving on the rear tank and switched to the front occasionally to see if possibly something might of freed up and made the pump work again. And it didn't. Tonight, I turned the key on, not running, to hear the whine of the pump and the click of the relay. With the rear pump, that is what happened. With the front pump, I did not hear the whine but heard the relay click. So here are my questions:
Does the relay click after the pump pressurizes?
In looking at the schematics in the Haynes manual, I assume that from the PCM to the relay, to the inertia switch, to the tank selector switch is a single wire. From the selector switch to the pumps is where the circuit separates to the two different pumps. Is this true?
Since my rear pump is working, I assume the problem lies between the selector switch and the pumps, not before it?
The selector switch can be the problem?
My fuel gauge still reads fuel in the front tank. I assume if the pump broke, it's possible to still get a reading from the fuel sending switch? It's not powered by the same wire?
I did pull a po232 code- Fuel pump secondary circuit high
The reason I am asking is so I'm not dropping my gas tank for nothing. Any help would be appreciated.

 

Yeah, the idea that the issue lies between the selector switch and the pump is very likely, if it was the inertia switch or fuel pump relay, then neither pump would work. Start by finding out if voltage is getting to the pump itself or not, if you have voltage at the pump, look at either a bad ground, or the pump itself, if no voltage, look for a break in the wiring.

 

I would do both if pumps bad, lift bed is easier than dropping tank for me anyway

 

No, the relay clicks on when the key is turned to RUN; and if the engine is NOT spinning above 100RPM, it clicks off after ~1 second. Pressure is not a factor - there is no fuel pressure sensor on the truck.Yes, this may be easier to follow:

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Correct, as long as you include the switch & pump in that list.Yes, but it's not likely to be damaged by hitting a bump.Correct.That suggests that the fuel pump return (ground) wire has lost connection. Unplug the tank connector, and test resistance/continuity from Pump+ to Pump- on the tank side; and from Pump- to a clean ground location on the harness side.

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Fuel pump seconday circuit also includes the pump. Last month, I changed a pump with an open winding.Your DVM can be your best friend in this situation.

 

To 2woods,
I've have done the pump replacement before by removing the bed. But I was living somewhere else that didn't care about working on your vehicles, that's not the case anymore.

 

In case anyone wants to know. I tested the power wires at the connection of the pump and had nearly 12 volts. So I replaced the pump and everything is working fine.

Thanks for the help.