1996 4.9 inline 6, and fuel injected. I think I better replace the fuel lines. At least along the frame, next to the front fuel tank, the metal tube is showing lots of rust. Never thought about this problem until now, and aside from handling some connections for the filter and tank pump replacements, I don't know anything about the fuel lines.
That is the first problem. I wanted to replace the metal lines with rubber or nylon, but it looks like the fuel pressure dictates what kind of line? One video showed a good mechanic replacing the metal line with nylon. I wanted to use rubber for more robust material, but found out that some hoses can't be used for fuel injected engines. So, the hose needs to be for higher psi, SAE 30R9, which is good for up to 180 psi. Some hoses (amazon) claim up to 100 psi.
Should I keep searching for the rubber hose or is the nylon good too? As for the connections, if I use rubber hose, is the band clamp good? Just thought of searching for quick connectors for rubber hose, at least for the fuel filter. If such quick connector comes with a barb fitting, is the band clamp good for making leak free clamping?

 

Probably not.Not likely - it's stainless. Do you drive the truck through raw industrial chemicals? Do you ever wash the underside? Try it... Bring some ramps to a coin-op car wash, and drive both Right tires up so you can look under & hit the inside of the Left frame rail with the pressure gun.They're maintenance free, and messing with them is extraordinarily dangerous.Rubber is NOT robust.No.

 

You can use the SAE 30R9 hose with "fuel injection" band clamps.That hose is capable of withstanding any pressure your system will produce. You will have to have a flared ends on the metal line which you mate to. I have done this repair nearly the entire length on several non Ford vehicles that still used steel lines,securing with tie wraps and the repair lasted many years and outlasted the vehicles.Use this clamp as the worm clamp is only useful for lower pressure use.

 

Thank you for the replies. I will check the lines again. I assumed the lines were rusted, and there are videos (on other make cars) showing repairs on rusted fuel metal lines. Since I'm on third brake lines (nickel-copper this time and seems to be holding), I assumed fuel lines will go as well, I will check my truck line with magnet as well as sand away the brown crud (which I thought was rust).

I looked for high pressure fuel hoses. One website says 30R9 rating means max 180psi, but amazon search says max 100 psi. On Gates brochure, its "Barricade" lines have max 100 or 200 lines. Gates ptfe nylon is max 100 psi. I also looked for my fuel pump psi and found that each pump (2 tanks) generates 90 psi and reduced to 45psi at the regulator. If the pump is 90psi, 100psi fuel lines seem to be not good enough? This is IF I need to replace the metal lines.

Steve83, what do you mean by not robust? Do you mean that rubber will eventually deteriorate under the fuel conditions (gas/alcohol), or outside of the rubber hose will get damaged sooner? I'm asking because of the rubber sections at the fuel tanks. Ford used some kind of rubber lines at the tanks. Do they need to be replaced at some time? When changing the pumps, I saw o-rings inside the quick connects and I did wonder how long they're good for? If these need changing, can I replace them with, example, Dorman quick connects?

If using combination of rubber and metal, what kind of flare for the metal line? I have a decent flare/double flare tool (Rigid) for making brake lines. Is this the kind of flare for the fuel line as well?

Sorry I don't have anything definitive but the questions. So far, I only know the lines look rusted. I did not know that they were stainless. I could be just working myself up for nothing as well. The rubber hoses I replaced, heater hoses, radiators hoses, brake hoses, did not look terrible when removed. I just replaced them, assuming 15 years or so made them vulnerable to rupturing or such. When removed and cut, the wall of the hoses looked still fresh, pliable and not necessarily soft in case of the brake hoses.

 

No need. They ARE stainless, and some stainless alloys are magnetizable (like refrigerator doors), so it won't tell you anything useful.BAD idea. Pressure wash, or just leave it alone. Abrading the fuel lines won't help them.Exactly.That's just an identification sheath - it has nothing to do with fuel.

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Longer than you'll have the truck.Carry a fire extinguisher & good life insurance.Yep.BAD logic. Follow the maintenance schedule. Anything NOT on it NEVER needs to be changed, unless specifically damaged.

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The caption is more-legible & -complete, but neither mentions replacing any hoses, brake lines, or O-rings. New parts are generally INFERIOR to originals, so unless there's a specific reason for replacement, keep the originals.

 

Steve83. Thank you for the reply and all the answers. Where you answer the question about the flex hose that it is just an id sheath, I don't get it. It is clearly some kind of flexible material, not a metal line. The photo says it has hard plastic inner lining. Although, at this point, I am relieved to know that I will not have to change the fuel lines, and just for my own information, what kind of hard plastic is it? Even if Ford used it for the sake of convenience, it must have used a section of it because Ford figured that hard plastic will last as long as the metal? This mix of metal and plastic is what confuses me.
BTW, I see same "rusty" conditions on the metal line going to the evap canister? But is this also stainless? Let me ask this question anyway, even though I will review the check-list. If it isn't stainless and it is something that needs to be replaced, can I use fuel rubber hose? I assume this part isn't under the pressure and doesn't have to be a metal (or high pressure hose)? I realize rubber is not as robust, but I do try to protect them where applicable. Example, I replaced my camry p/s return line (part metal, part rubber) with all rubber p/s hose and sheathed that hose with a heater hose. Also clamping the assembly to the frame where I can.
As an aside, I was thinking this fuel line was lasting a lot longer than the brake lines I had to replace. Current ni-cop line is the third, record says installed 2013. Past two steel only lines (by a mechanic) didn't last at all. I see some tarnishing but still looks good compared to the rust crust forming on the outside. Two failed lines were the reason diying the brake lines.

 

Nylon.

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Browse the other captions in that photo album for more info.No, because there has to be some flexibility in the lines so that the parts they're connected to can be disconnected.Why? The whole truck is a mix of metal & plastic.No, galvanized steel.You CAN use anything, but you SHOULD use "vapor" hose only, for the vapor system.Unless the previous line failed due to mechanical abrasion, sheathing it was pointless.

 

Thanks for staying with me. Been a real education. Only now I look at the parts and feel like I'm familar with them or at least know why's.
For evap lines, I think I will use fuel hoses for more uses with the left overs. Even if it's for adding onto the gas cans. For that much, cost is not a concern. Please advice if there's some real issue between fuel and vapor hoses. What i.d. hose and does o.d. matter?
In your image of 95 Bronco, it shows single vapor line. I assume in my 96 f150 with 2 tanks, there will be a tee that connects 2 vapor lines into one that goes to the vapor cannister?
For stainless fuel lines, I still like to know what the brown crud on the surface is. If not sanding, try washing with soap and abrasive pad from kitchen? Why not sanding if the line is fairly robust? I'm in northeast NJ and no such thing as underbody pressure washing - no pits. I remember them when I was young and in south nj.
For camry I replaced metal line with p/s rubber hose entirely on the no pressure, return side. The original was a mix of rubber and metal. Metal lines had brackets and rubber cushions but the brackets were rusted and no good. Also high cost even for an after-market part. I sheathed the p/s rubber hose because it was going to see abrasion clamped to the frame. Whole thing is clamped to the frame with emt clamp I had. I figure the emt clamp will rust out before the sheathing is abraded. I have 2023 calendar marked for emt clamp replace.

 

Same ID as the hose you're replacing.
Yes, tee.
Brown crud is mud. Yes, soap & scrubber or fine steel wool. There are no pits here, either, but I just pressure-washed 4 trucks this week. Buy a pair or 2 of ramps, and put on some grubby clothes.