I was getting around to doing my shock installation (will update my thread when completed) and decided to take a short ride since the truck has been sitting for a few weeks. When I got back home I noticed there was a burning odor coming from the passenger front wheel. I jacked up the truck and when I spun the wheel by hand it sounded like gravel was in the hub and if I grabbed the tire with a hand at the top and bottom I could move the wheel quite a bit of lateral movement. I went and picked up the inner and outer bearings w/races and a oil seal got the wheel off and was able to get the clip out and the manually locking hub came out and now I'm stuck. I referenced my Haynes Manual and this is a direct quote from the manual "On model 44 axles with manual hub locks, remove the adjusting nut with a special locknut tool by applying inward pressure on the wrench to disengage the self-locking mechanism. Check with your local auto parts store for the availability of the proper tool. Continue to apply pressure as the nut is loosened and removed." Anybody have any idea what this "Special" Tool is?

 

The "special tool" should essentially be a big socket with little nubs coming out on the end of it.
Something like this https://www.oreillyauto.com/search/1...f-150?q=w83010

 

Before starting the repair I did purchase this socket but it's to small. https://www.weselltools.com/4-wheel-...e-nut-wrench-1

How many different designs of spindle nuts were used on the OBS over the years? Every video and pictures I've seen of bearing replacements my setup does not match any of them.

 

I have the PT W1271 model. Measures 2" id to the tabs and 2 3/16" od.
Mine does not indicate the size, however it is abut 20 years old, maybe different descriptions then and now.


That is the same part number, but description says 2 3/8".

During my quick search for the product, I see an updated model (can't recall the brand) that has the ears, however the outer surface is as deep as the tabs were, essentially making the tabs internal. I'm sure that is helpful to torque the lockring. It's tough to torque to spec and hold the tool straight.

 

STOP


Your truck is a '96. Your Haynes quote only applies to late-80s trucks. The WB adjusting nut in your axle is the later rounded-hex style, which doesn't actually require any special tool to remove or install.

(phone app link)


But you haven't gotten to that point, anyway... You still need to pop out the C-ring (#19), and slide out the 3 washers (16,17,18) on the axle splines that are hiding the locking clip (15) for the hex nut (14), then remove the clip by pulling it straight out of the spindle.

(phone app link)


This caption explains how to set the torque on that style of nut, which will give you an idea why it will be so easy to remove:

(phone app link)


It seems someone swapped from the 3-screw auto locks to those manual locks, without swapping the adjusting nut to an older style. Either the common double-nut or the self-locking nut that your Haynes quote applies to would work, but so will the one you've got as long as you re-assemble the clip, washers, & C-ring correctly. Based on the bearings being loose & gravelly, you may not have all the necessary pieces, so you should probably start shopping for the "conversion kit" (top 3 pieces in the Right side of the 1st pic below) and either style of 4-tooth spanner socket (2nd pic).

(phone app link)


(phone app link)

 

Funny, I came back to update my post that the socket I have was for the 1993 model I owned.
Ironically, per Steven's link, the design changed in 1994. LOL

 

***Disregard I see the c clip holding it in***

Thanks for the help everyone and thank you for the diagrams and the explanation of what I have going on in the hub Steve. After taking another look this morning I found some small rocks trapped between the shield and the rotor causing the grinding noise but there is still lateral play in the wheel so I'm still going after the bearings.

Steve, is the splined thrust washer (#18 in the diagram) a single use part? It's on the spindle tight and I don't see a way of getting it off without bending the crap out of it.

 

***Update***

The spindle nut was torqued down so I wasn't able to break it loose with a flat head or long needle nose pliers. I found the socket needed at O'REILLYS.

 

No, only the wheel seal & the grease should not be reused. Spin that washer until its splines line up, and it should slide off. Use a toothbrush & carb cleaner to remove hardened grease from the axle's splines that may catch the washer's splines.

 

I got it all back together. I found that the inner bearing was toast and the oil seal had melted. I found that the hubs had been repacked before because I found 4 different colors of grease. All the parts got a bath in break cleaner and wire brush (minus the new bearings and races). After I got my hands on the right tools it was a pretty easy job. From what I seen on the passenger side hub I went ahead and ordered another set of bearings, races, oil seals for the driver side and will knock that out next weekend. thanks for the help!