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Any help is greatly appreciated.
I was going over all my lights to make sure they work and when I came to the driver side turn signals only the rear one worked. So I pulled the bulb and checked the power. As the picture indicates it is getting power, so I replaced the bulb with one I knew worked and it still is not blinking. I am stumped at how a good bulb with power is not blinking, I also tried two more bulbs just to be sure.
Yes, I checked my blinker fluid level.
You're not checking "power" - you're checking VOLTAGE. More-precisely: you're checking OPEN-CIRCUIT voltage. The bulb closes the circuit when it's installed, which requires MUCH more current to flow before it can get up to the same voltage. So your test IMPLIES that there's high resistance in that circuit. But because you opened & modified the circuit (by removing the bulb & using a remote ground for the meter), nothing can actually be deduced from that meter reading. Restore the circuit (put the bulb back in) and test voltage again, using pierce probes (common stickpins will do, as long as you DON'T allow them to touch any metal other than the wires they're stabbed through); black meter probe on the black wire; red probe on the turn signal wire. It will probably show <5VDC but >0, indicating high resistance elsewhere in the circuit. If so, move the red probe to the green body ground bolt above the Left headlight and re-check. Also, move it to the battery negative post & a shiny spot on something Aluminum bolted to the engine (like the intake plenum or an accessory bracket). If those 3 readings are the SAME as the turn wire, the resistance is on the GROUND side of the bulb. If those 3 readings are NOT IDENTICAL to each other, there are serious problems with the truck's grounding. If they're all zero, the resistance is on the HOT (+12V) side of the bulb, and you'll have to do more diagnosis to pinpoint it.
Then start moving the probes ONE AT A TIME toward each other along the circuit. When the reading drops to zero, you just moved a probe across the problem. Move it back just until you get the reading back, which will tell you exactly where the problem is. It will most likely be at the body end of the black wire from the blinker socket.
Then start moving the probes ONE AT A TIME toward each other along the circuit. When the reading drops to zero, you just moved a probe across the problem. Move it back just until you get the reading back, which will tell you exactly where the problem is. It will most likely be at the body end of the black wire from the blinker socket.
Awesomesauce! I followed your instructions and found it right about where you guessed it would be. Thank you loads Steve83, you have been a tremendous help!